Nonlinear Analysis of Nearshore Wave Height Variation Due to Shoaling

Wave formulae derived from the dispersion relation for cnoidal waves are used to find an analytical solution to the problem of nearshore wave height variation on a simple topography, i. e., with an incrementally constant slope. The solution accounts for shoaling, frictional dissipation and will be sufficiently accurate for practical purposes considering the simplified assumptions which are necessary for the treatment of this problem by any method.

Determination of fractional energy loss of waves in nearshore waters using an improved high-order Boussinesq-type model

Fractional energy losses of waves due to wave breaking when passing over a submerged bar are studied systematically using a modified numerical code that is based on the high-order Boussinesq-type equations.The model is first tested by the additional experimental data,and the model's capability of simulating the wave transformation over both gentle slope and steep slope is demonstrated.Then,the model's breaking index is replaced and tested.The new breaking index,which is optimized from the several breaking indices,is not sensitive to the spatial grid length and includes the bottom slopes.Numerical tests show that the modified model with the new breaking index is more stable and efficient for the shallow-water wave breaking.Finally,the modified model is used to study the fractional energy losses for the regular waves propagating and breaking over a submerged bar.Our results have revealed that how the nonlinearity and the dispersion of the incident waves as well as the dimensionless bar height(normalized by water depth) dominate the fractional energy losses.It is also found that the bar slope(limited to gentle slopes that less than 1:10) and the dimensionless bar length(normalized by incident wave length) have negligible effects on the fractional energy losses.

Numerical simulation of typhoon- induced storm surge on the coast of Jiangsu Province,China,based on coupled hydrodynamic and wave models

In order to facilitate engineering design and coastal flooding protection, the potential storm surge induced by a typhoon is studied.Using an unstructured mesh, a coupled model which combines the advanced circulation （ ADCIRC ） hydrodynamic model and simulating waves nearshore （ SWAN ） model is applied to analyze the storm surge and waves on the coast of Jiangsu Province.The verifications of wind velocity, tidal levels and wave height show that this coupling model performs well to reflect the characteristics of the water levels and waves in the studied region.Results show that the effect of radiation stress on storm surge is significant, especially in shallow areas such as the coast of Jiangsu Province and the Yangtze estuary.By running the coupled model, the simulated potential flooding results can be employed in coastal engineering applications in the Jiangsu coastal area, such as storm surge warnings and extreme water level predictions.

Study on the growth of wind wave frequency spectra generated by cold waves in the northern East China Sea

The growth of frequency spectra and spectral parameters of wind waves generated by cold waves, a kind of severe weather system, in the northern East China Sea is studied in this paper. Based on a third-generation wave action model(the Simulating WAves Nearshore model), simulations were developed to analyze the spatiotemporal characteristics of wind waves and to output spectral data. It is shown that the cold wave-induced spectra can be well described by the modified Joint North Sea Wave Project spectral form. The growth of wave spectra is comprehensively reflected by the evolution of the three characteristic parameters: peak frequency, spectral peak and wave energy. Besides, the approximations of dependences between spectral parameters and the three types of universal induced factors are obtained with the least squares method and compared systematically. Fetch and peak frequency turn out to be suitable parameters to describe the spectral parameters, while the dependences on the inverse wave age vary in different sea areas. In general, the derived relationships improve on results from previous studies for better practical application of the wind wave frequency spectrum in the northern East China Sea.

1979—2018年间山东半岛沿海台风浪危险性分布的数值模拟研究

台风浪灾害在山东半岛沿海时常发生,对人类生命财产和基础设施构成很大威胁,因此,对山东半岛海域台风浪的危险性分析具有重要的现实意义。本研究使用ADCIRC+SWAN耦合数值模式采用Holland模型风场与NCEP再分析风场组合的风场驱动,对1979-2018年36次台风过境期间的海浪过程进行了模拟。以台风过境时最大有效波高及历时频数作为危险性评价指标,给出了山东半岛近岸台风浪强度等级分布、历时频数分布以及危险性指数分布。研究结果显示,山东半岛北部为台风浪低危险区,台风浪强度等级低且历时短;南部二级强度(有效波高范围为1.3-2.5m)以上台风浪发生较为频繁,危险性高于北部;东部台风浪强度可以达到四级(有效波高4m以上),危险性最高。

APPLICATION OF TWO-DIMENSIONAL WAVELET TRANSFORM IN NEAR-SHORE X-BAND RADAR IMAGES

Among existing remote sensing applications, land-based X-band radar is an effective technique to monitor the wave fields, and spatial wave information could be obtained from the radar images. Two-dimensional Fourier Transform （2-D FT） is the common algorithm to derive the spectra of radar images. However, the wave field in the nearshore area is highly non-homogeneous due to wave refraction, shoaling, and other coastal mechanisms. When applied in nearshore radar images, 2-D FT would lead to ambiguity of wave characteristics in wave number domain. In this article, we introduce two-dimensional Wavelet Transform （2-D WT） to capture the non-homogeneity of wave fields from nearshore radar images. The results show that wave number spectra by 2-D WT at six parallel space locations in the given image clearly present the shoaling of nearshore waves. Wave number of the peak wave energy is increasing along the inshore direction, and dominant direction of the spectra changes from South South West （SSW） to West South West （WSW）. To verify the results of 2-D WT, wave shoaling in radar images is calculated based on dispersion relation. The theoretical calculation results agree with the results of 2-D WT on the whole. The encouraging performance of 2-D WT indicates its strong capability of revealing the non-homogeneity of wave fields in nearshore X-band radar images.