Simulation Study of Disastrous Waves Along Indonesian Offshore and Coast Under Roaring Forties and Tropical Cyclones

Indonesian offshore and coastal areas are vulnerable to swells from Roaring Forties and cyclone disasters.However,the understanding of the characteristics and propagation mechanisms of local disastrous waves is insufficient,posing a threat to the construction,maintenance,and protection of coastal structures.This study establishes a multiple nested wave model based on the third-generation wave model WAVEWATCHⅢ.This model includes sole forcing of Roaring Forties and combined forcing of Roaring Forties and cyclone Ernie to simulate the influence of disastrous waves under the Roaring Forties and tropical cyclones in the Indonesian offshore zone and coasts.The following results are obtained.The Indonesian offshore is prevailed by relatively stable southern to southwestern dominant swells and small wind waves under the impacts of the Roaring Forties without cyclone winds.Long propagating swells originated from the Roaring Forties dominate in nearshore coastal waters with deformed directions and strength because of the shoaling effect.

Relating the composition of continental margin surface sediments from the Ross Sea to the Amundsen Sea,West Antarctica,to modern environmental conditions

Investigating the multiple proxies involving productivity,organic geochemistry,and trace element(TE)enrichment in surface sediments could be used as paleoenvironment archives to gain insights into past and future environmental conditions changes.We present redox-sensitive TEs(Mn,Ni,Cu,U,P,Mo,Co,V,Zn,and Cd),productivity-related proxies(total organic carbon and opal),and total nitrogen and CaCO_(3) contents of bulk surface sediments of this area.The productivity proxies from the shelf and coastal regions of the Ross and the Amundsen seas showed that higher productivity was affiliated with an area of nutrient-rich deep water upwelling.The upwelling of weakly corrosive deep water may be beneficial for preserving CaCO_(3),while highly corrosive dense water,if it forms on the shelf near the coastal region(coastal polynya),could limit the preservation of CaCO_(3) in modern conditions.There were no oxic or anoxic conditions in the study area,as indicated by the enrichment factors of redox-sensitive TEs(Mn,Co,and U).The enrichment factor of Cd,which is redox-sensitive,indicated suboxic redox conditions in sediment environments because of high primary productivity and organic matter preservation/decomposition.The enrichment factors of other redox-sensitive TEs(P,Ni,Cu,V,and Zn)and the correlations between the element/Ti ratio with productivity and nutrient proxies indicated that the organic matter decomposed,and there was massive burial of phytoplankton biomass.There was variation in the enrichment,such that sediments were enriched in P,Mo,and Zn,but depleted in Ni,Cu,and V.