The False Obvious:Gender Myth in Perfume Commercials

Perfume commercial,as a form of cultural text and practice,is relatively special in contemporary commercial advertising:The commodity qualities of perfume dictate that perfume advertisements must cater to the sexual fantasies of the audience,and therefore inevitably characterize the mainstream,dominant gender norms.At the same time,perfume commercial,as a unique marketing communication method,also unconsciously influences people’s values through sensory stimulation and emotional rendering.This article explores the connection between perfume and its commercials,sex,and gender,and discusses the generation of meaning in perfume commercials as texts and deconstructs the gender myth implied from the perspectives of representation and myth analysis,ultimately revealing that behind the gender myth of perfume commercials is but a false manifestation of the ideal self-image of the western white bourgeois heterosexuality.

Preparations and Properties of Perfume Microcapsules

With Perfume as core and gelatin-gum arabic as mem-brane,a series of microcapsules were prepared by meansof complex coacervation at various technical conditions.Their interior and outer diameters and membrane thick-nesses were measured and the effects of preparation tech-niques on microcapsule properties were revealed.

Extraction of Amino-J Acid from Waste-water by Emulsion Liquid Membrane

The emulsion liquid membrane technique was used to extract amino-J acid from industrial dye waste-water.The effects of stirring speed,ratio of the emulsion to water(Rew),ratio of the oil to internal phase(Roi)and membrane phase components on the extraction rate were investigated and optimized.The results showed that the extraction rate of amino-J acid approached 97% when the stirring speed was 300 r/min,Rew 1:6,Roi 1:1,trioctylamine(TOA)3 mL/100 mL kerosene,and methyl?didecyle?alcohol?acrylate(LMA-2)3 g/100 mL kerosene,respectively.The extraction rate had not changed with the oil phase reused for times.

The Smell of Success?—The Impact of Perfume-Gender Congruency on Ratings of Attraction and the Halo Effect

Research into the concept of attraction has indicated the existence of olfactory influences that go beyond pheromonal level. Synthetic fragrances have been found to affect not only perception of attraction, but also attribution of beauty-unrelated intrinsic characteristics. The present study aimed to examine the impact of perfume-gender congruency on ratings of attractiveness and any perfume-generated halo effect. Male faces categorized as low, medium and high attractiveness were rated by 36 heterosexual female students across six domains: attractive, reliable, outgoing, intelligent, wealthy and socially competent. Ratings were made in the presence of a female perfume (incongruent condition), male perfume (congruent condition) or a no perfume control condition, with participants randomly allocated to produce three groups of equal size. The results indicated that 1) attractiveness generated a significant halo effect;2) the male perfume did not significantly enhance perception of attractiveness compared to the female perfume;and 3) the gender-congruent fragrance heightened attribution of “halo” characteristics. These results indicate that gender congruent perfume can impact positively on first impressions beyond attractiveness, and are discussed in terms of possible mechanisms and implications.

STRUCTURE OF MAIN COMPONENT IN PERFUME "ISO-E-SUPER"

Addition of myrcene and 3-methyl-3-penten-2-one followed by cyclization afforded perfume 'Iso-E-Super' with 2(?)-acetyl-2β,3β,8,8-tetramethyl-1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8-octalin as main component on the basis of its spectroscopic data.

Determination of 24 Allergens in Perfume with High Performance Liquid Chromatography Tandem Mass Spectrometry

A method of 24 allergens determination in cosmetics were established with high performance liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry. The targeted compounds were extracted with acetonitrile and determined with LC-MS/MS (MRM mode) with external method. The linearity between concentrations and peak area ratio was obtained from 1.0~5.0 mg/L. The limits of detection were 1.0 mg/L for the instrument and 5.0 mg/kg for the method respectively. The LOQ was 15.0 mg/L. The average recoveries of 24 allergens were between 85.9% and 110.0% at spiked levels of 5, 10 and 20 mg/kg with relative standard derivation (RSDs) of 5.5%~12.0%(n=10). The method could be used as a reliable means for simultaneous quantitative determination of allergens in cosmetics.

Nency Perfumes

Perfume did not originate in France. But the reputation of the French perfumes are world famous. The Beijing-ParisNency Cosmetics Company, Ltd., a joint venture between China and France, has developed the Lance range of perfumes. They are produced under the personal guidance of Mr. AS, one of the six most famous perfume producers in France. With

White Rabbit flavored Perfume Launched On-line Limited Sale

A few days ago, the White Rabbit's joint signed fragrance series was launched on Tmall. The products include perfumes, shower gels, body lotions, hand creams and car fragrances. According to information, White Rabbit joint signed fragrance series is available for online and offline sales. The Tmall flagship store staff said that although it is limited edition, the specific product quantity is still unclear. In fact, this is not the first time that White Rabbit has cooperated to launch peripheral products. In September 2018, the White Rabbit and the beauty brand Maxam launched a lip balm. On May 10, 2019, the White Rabbit launched a joint clothing series with the Peace Bird on the LEDIN 2019 Fashion Show.

A Corpus-Based Analysis on the Pragmatics Presupposition in Perfume Advertisements

The advertisement has been widely utilized as a vital vehicle for information delivery,which highly requires the effects of persuasion with the proper use of pragmatic presupposition.In recent years,scholars have adopted diversified perspectives in the study of advertising discourse,but the research aimed at specific fields of advertisements is scattered,repetitive,and segmented.Hence,the corpus in this paper mainly comes from newspapers and magazines in the early years.This paper collects Chinese and English perfume advertisements from the official website,online flag-ship stores,and magazines of perfume advertising.The pragmatic presupposition in perfume advertisements is analyzed in three aspects through the definition and exemplification.Besides,the positive and negative influences of the perfume pragmatics are discussed to provide instruction for further study on the advertising language.

微纳化封装芳香载体的制备及缓释性能研究

芳香纺织品是备受关注的功能纺织品。芳香气味具有舒缓压力、调节情绪、改善睡眠等功效。但是芳香物质存在易挥发的问题,提高香味的长效释放和耐水洗性一直是芳香纺织品制备有待解决的问题。文中以硅烷偶联剂对纳米二氧化硅进行表面结构调控处理,构建有机-无机复合材料,探索芳香物质微纳化封装;将微纳化封装的芳香载体材料通过原位固定法负载到织物上,并对织物的芳香释放性能和耐久效果进行评价。结果表明,由微纳化封装的有机-无机复合芳香载体制备的芳香纤维结构体具有适宜的香气和长效释放的效果,由此形成的织物加香技术,可广泛应用于纺织品芳香整理,在芳香功能纺织品的制备应用中拥有巨大潜力。

基于气相色谱-质谱研究肝喜片处方中挥发性成分

目的前期研究显示肝喜片处方中陈皮、茵陈、沉香等6种含挥发性成分中药饮片提取的芳香水中解析出8种挥发性成分,其中柠檬烯、γ-萜品烯、冰片、β-蒎烯具有抗炎、抗氧化、抗肿瘤等作用。为进一步研究肝喜片全方中挥发性成分,本研究采用气相色谱-质谱法(GC-MS)分析医院制剂肝喜片处方中的挥发性化学成分。方法利用水蒸气蒸馏法提取肝喜片中非全方芳香水及全方芳香水,并结合GC-MS技术对其成分进行检测及解析。结果肝喜片全方中药饮片提取的芳香水中共检测出28种挥发性成分,含量较高的成分为右旋樟脑(48.45%)、苯甲醛(12.46%)、芳香酮(8.69%),合计69.6%,但均无明显药理作用;其他少量成分有药理作用,但含量很低。结论肝喜片工艺优化提取挥发性成分时不宜用全方,应优选陈皮、茵陈、沉香等6种含挥发性成分中药饮片提取芳香水。

不同品种和来源香料用鸢尾净油的提取及香气成分分析

为选择合适的产业化开发材料,收集不同品种和来源的香料用鸢尾陈化根茎材料4份,提取净油,对比出油率和香气,通过GC-MS和内标定量方法来分析其成分及含量。结果显示意大利产香根鸢尾和浙江产香根鸢尾净油得率较低,分别为1.35%和0.93%,成分检出总量较高,分别为192.05、210.97μg/mg干材料,α-鸢尾酮与γ-鸢尾酮的含量较高,比值较佳,特征香气明显。云南产香根鸢尾和德国鸢尾净油得率较高,分别为7.04%和3.96%,成分检出总量较低,分别为130.07、106.16μg/mg干材料,α-鸢尾酮与γ-鸢尾酮含量均较低,特征香气较淡或不明显。综合分析,意大利产香根鸢尾和浙江产香根鸢尾为比较适宜的材料来源。

润叶加工强度对烟叶物理结构及感官特性的影响

采用正交试验对不同润叶加工强度下烟叶物理结构及感官特性进行分析,结果表明,影响润叶后感官质量评吸的工艺参数是热风温度、回风温度、出口水分。当原料等级为FC2F,热风温度为105℃,回风温度为37℃,出口水分为18.5%时,烟叶色泽变化在似变深到稍变深范围内,没有出现明显变深的现象,物理工艺指标良好,大中片率≥85%,且香气特性、吸味特性等感官质量综合最佳,达到保香加工的目标。可见,通过调整预处理工序工艺参数实现柔性化处理,在保障烟叶物理结构的同时,保持烟草香气的丰富性和浓度,提升烟叶的配方可用性和拓宽烟叶配方使用范围,为卷烟品牌的发展提供优质的原料,也为打叶复烤工艺优化及润叶智能化控制研究提供参考。

固相萃取-气相色谱法测定油料中5种香精香料

建立一种通过固相萃取-气相色谱法同时测定油料中香兰素、甲基香兰素、乙基香兰素、乙基麦芽酚和2,3,5-三甲基吡嗪的方法。方法采用固相萃取柱C18为净化材料,以乙腈和水体积比20∶3为提取溶剂,经超声提取时间20 min后采用CD-WAX毛细管色谱柱进行样品分析。结果表明,建立的方法在0.5~200.0 mg/L范围内线性关系良好,回收率为95.2%~104.2%,RSD为1.24%~4.54%,检出限和定量限分别均为0.5 mg/kg和1.5 mg/kg。

异丁香酚-β-D-葡萄糖苷的合成及热裂解转移率

以乙酰溴-α-D-葡萄糖(Ⅰ)作为糖基供体与异丁香酚(Ⅱ)进行反应,通过相转移催化法和离子液体催化法合成了异丁香酚-2,3,4,6-四-O-乙酰基-β-D-葡萄糖苷(Ⅲ),然后在甲醇钠中脱乙酰化得到异丁香酚-β-D-葡萄糖苷(Ⅳ)。将化合物Ⅳ加入卷烟中,测试了其在卷烟主流烟气粒相中的转移率。结果表明,合成Ⅲ采用离子液体催化法(收率56.8%)优于相转移催化法(收率43.5%)。离子液体催化法反应条件为:1-丁基-3-甲基-溴化咪唑为催化剂、氯仿为溶剂、氢氧化钠水溶液为缚酸剂、n(Ⅰ)∶n(Ⅱ)=0.8∶1,n(Ⅰ)∶n(1-丁基-3-甲基-溴化咪唑)=1∶1、室温、反应时间8 h。在上述条件下,化合物Ⅲ的收率为56.8%。化合物Ⅲ在甲醇钠/甲醇溶液中反应脱去四乙酰基,得到化合物Ⅳ,收率87.6%。卷烟燃吸过程中,化合物Ⅳ热裂解为异丁香酚,异丁香酚向主流烟气粒相中的转移率为3.2%。

“美”的对流:汉代边疆文化风景

汉代边疆作为民族交往交流交融的前沿空间,不同民族文化在这里碰撞与交融。除了物质交易、技术传播之外,精神文化层面的双向交流或许也可以称为“对流”,影响了“胡”“汉”双方的生活和艺术。不同民族的人们对于可以产生美感的文化存在的共同追求,促成了汉代不同民族文化“对流”的实现。通过丝绸之路,中原的“采缯”向西传布,西域的“采罽”东输,也满足了内地的消费需求。除“胡乐”影响中土艺术生活之外,中原“音乐”也传入胡地。一方面汉地女子以其包括美容方式的妆饰,通过“和亲”及其他跨民族情爱和婚姻关系沟通了不同民族的情感;另一方面,“胡粉”和西域“异香”也传入中原,美化了汉地社会生活。趋于共同的美学追求,使得民族关系亲近融合,成就了多彩的汉文化。

不同保鲜材料处理对黄柠檬和香水柠檬保鲜效果影响的研究

为分析不同包装材料处理对黄柠檬和香水柠檬保鲜效果的影响,使用聚乳酸(PLA)膜(生物易降解气调保鲜)和PE+EVA膜(锁鲜因子气调保鲜)2种包装材料处理黄柠檬和香水柠檬,在(8±2)℃低温条件进行贮藏。以黄柠檬和香水柠檬的失重率、硬度、色差、可滴定酸含量、可溶性固形物含量等为考查指标,探讨2种包装材料对2种柠檬贮藏过程中保鲜效果的影响。结果表明,采用PE+EVA膜处理有效降低了黄柠檬和香水柠檬贮藏期间的失重率。贮藏至60 d时,香水柠檬和黄柠檬的失重率分别只有0.67%和0.85%。而PLA保鲜袋处理组对香水柠檬的护绿效果较好,但其失重率较高。

4-甲基-3-噻唑啉类食用香料的合成及性能

以脂肪醛、2,5-二甲基-2,5-二羟基-1,4-二噻烷和氨水为原料,去离子水或无水乙醇为溶剂,合成了4-甲基-3-噻唑啉、2,4-二甲基-3-噻唑啉、2-乙基-4-甲基-3-噻唑啉、2-异丙基-4-甲基-3-噻唑啉、2-丙基-4-甲基-3-噻唑啉、2-丁基-4-甲基-3-噻唑啉6种4-甲基-3-噻唑啉类香料化合物,产率为50%~91%。通过质谱、1HNMR和13CNMR对其结构进行了鉴定,对合成的6种4-甲基-3-噻唑啉类香料化合物的香气特征进行了评价,对保留指数进行了测定。结果表明,4-甲基-3-噻唑啉类香料化合物具有烤香、坚果香和焦香。其在HP-INNOWAX极性色谱柱上的保留指数为1398~1686,在HP-5MS非极性色谱柱上的保留指数为938~1253。

不同组合香辛料对猪肉汤挥发性风味物质的影响

将不同质量分数的八角、月桂叶、桂皮、香葱、生姜和猪五花肉进行煮制,采用感官评价、电子鼻及气相色谱-质谱联用技术,探究不同组合香辛料质量分数对猪肉汤风味轮廓及风味物质的影响。结果表明,最优组合香辛料质量分数分别为0.130%八角、0.050%月桂叶、0.027%桂皮、0.800%香葱和0.130%生姜,且组合香辛料质量分数对猪肉汤风味轮廓影响较大。在4个不同质量分数组合香辛料的猪肉汤中共鉴定出56种挥发性物质。组合香辛料为猪肉汤引入了肉桂醛、茴香脑等物质。随着香辛料质量分数的增加,正己醛、(2E,4E)-癸二烯醛的相对含量逐渐增大,而1-辛烯-3-醇、3-羟基-2-丁酮及2-正戊基呋喃含量变化明显,表明香辛料中某些成分可能对脂肪氧化降解及美拉德反应有影响。