A Study of Bispectra in Relation to the Adequacy of Wave Spectral Model

In this paper, the characteristics of laboratory wind waves under various wind speeds and water depths are studied. It is found that either the real or the imaginary part of the bispectrum can be related to the asymmetry of the wave profile, and the bicoherence is related to the ratio of nonlinear to linear wave component. Occasionally, these two categories of nonlinear index lead to opposite inferences, because each of them has its own significance and functions. The applicability of linear wave spectral model in ocean waves becomes questionable only when strong nonlinearity is indicated by both of these two indexes, The linear spectral representation of wave fields does not necessarily become inadequate as water depth decreases, and its appropriateness can be examined through the characteristics of the bispectrum.

Modeling of random wave transformation with strong wave-induced coastal currents

The propagation and transformation of multi-directional and uni-directional random waves over a coast with complicated bathymetric and geometric features are studied experimentally and numerically. Laboratory investigation indicates that wave energy convergence and divergence cause strong coastal currents to develop and inversely modify the wave fields. A coastal spectral wave model, based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction effect （WABED）, is used to simulate the transformation of random waves over the complicated bathymetry. The diffraction effect in the wave model is derived from a parabolic approximation of wave theory, and the mean energy dissipation rate per unit horizontal area due to wave breaking is parameterized by the bore-based formulation with a breaker index of 0.73. The numerically simulated wave field without considering coastal currents is different from that of experiments, whereas model results considering currents clearly reproduce the intensification of wave height in front of concave shorelines.

Focused Wave Properties Based on A High Order Spectral Method with A Non-Periodic Boundary

In this paper, a numerical model is developed based on the High Order Spectral （HOS） method with a non-periodic boundary. A wave maker boundary condition is introduced to simulate wave generation at the incident boundary in the HOS method. Based on the numerical model, the effects of wave parameters, such as the assumed focused amplitude, the central frequency, the frequency bandwidth, the wave amplitude distribution and the directional spreading on the surface elevation of the focused wave, the maximum generated wave crest, and the shifting of the focusing point, are numerically investigated. Especially, the effects of the wave directionality on the focused wave properties are emphasized. The numerical results show that the shifting of the focusing point and the maximum crest of the wave group are dependent on the amplitude of the focused wave, the central frequency, and the wave amplitude distribution type. The wave directionality has a definite effect on multidirectional focused waves. Generally, it can even out the difference between the simulated wave amplitude and the amplitude expected from theory and reduce the shifting of the focusing points, implying that the higher order interaction has an influence on wave focusing, especially for 2D wave. In 3D wave groups, a broader directional spreading weakens the higher nonlinear interactions.

Efficient Focusing Models for Generation of Freak Waves

Four focusing models for generation of freak waves are presented. An extreme wave focusing model is presented on the basis of the enhanced High-Order Spectral （HOS） method and the importance of the nonlinear wave-wave interaction is evaluated by comparison of the calculated results with experimental and theoretical data. Based on the modification of the Longuet-Higgins model, four wave models for generation of freak waves （a. extreme wave model ＋ random wave model; b. extreme wave model ＋ regular wave model; e. phase interval modulation wave focusing model; d. number modulation wave focusing model with the same phase） are proposed. By use of different energy distribution techniques in the four models, freak wave events are obtained with different Hmax/Hs in finite space and time.

A Study on the Spectral Form of Nearshore Water Waves

The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data.

The Development of a Nonhydrostatic Global Spectral Model

With the development of numerical weather prediction technology, the traditional global hydrostatic models used in many countries of the world for operational weather forecasting and numerical simulations of general circulation have become more and more unfit for high-impact weather prediction. To address this, it is important to invest in the development of global nonhydrostatic models. Few existing nonhydrostatic global models use consistently the grid finite difference scheme for the primitive equations of dynamical cores, which can subsequently degrade the accuracy of the calculations. A new nonhydrostatic global spectral model, which utilizes the Eulerian spectral method, is developed here from NCAR Community Atmosphere Model 3.0 （CAM3.0）. Using Janjic＇s hydrostatic/nonhydrostatic method, a global nonhydrostatic spectral method for the primitive equations has been formulated and developed. In order to retain the integrity of the nonhydrostatic equations, the atmospheric curvature correction and eccentricity correction are considered. In this paper, the Held-Suarez idealized test and an idealized baroclinic wave test are first carried out, which shows that the nonhydrostatic global spectral model has similar climate states to the results of many other global models for long-term idealized integration, as well as better simulation ability for short-term idealized integration. Then, a real case experiment is conducted using the new dynamical core with the full physical parameterizations of subgrid-scale physical processes. The 10-day numerical integration indicates a decrease in systematic error and a better simulation of zonal wind, temperature, and 500-hPa height.

3-D simulations of freak waves based on high-order spectral method

Three-dimensional ( 3-D) directional wave focusing is one of the mechanisms that contribute to the generation of freak waves. To simulate and analyze this phenomenon,a 3-D wave focusing model is proposed based on the enhanced high-order spectral method,which solves the fully nonlinear potential flow equations with a free surface within periodic unbounded 3-D domains. The numerical model is validated against a fifth-order Stokes solution for regular waves. Laboratory-scale freak waves are observed with wave components having equal amplitudes. Investigations of the appearance and propagation of freak-wave events in a 3-D open wavefield defined by a directional wave spectrum are then realized.

WIND WAVES SIMULATION IN THE NORTH AREA OF THE SOUTH CHINA SEA

A third generation wave model was developed to simulate wind waves in the South China Sea near Hong Kong. The model solves the energy conservation equation of the two dimensional wave spectrum by directly computing the nonlinear energy interaction among waves of different frequencies, thus avoiding the imposition of restrictions on the shape of the predicted spectra. The use of an upwind difference scheme in the advective terms produces an artificial diffusion which partly compensates the dispersive effect due to the phase velocity differences among various wave components. The use of a semi-implicit scheme for the source terms together with a special treatment of the high frequency tail of the spectrum allows a large time integration step. Verification of the model was done for wave hindcasting studies under conditions of two typhoons and two cold fronts in the north part of the South China Sea near Hong Kong . The model results agree well with the field measurements except that the presence of a

Numerical simulation and mechanism analysis of freak waves

A numerical wave model based on the modified fourth-order nonlinear Schroe dinger equation （mNLSE） in deep water was developed to simulate the formation of freak waves and a standard split - step, pseudo-spectral method was used to solve the equation. The validation of the model is firstly verified, then the simulation of freak waves was performed by changing sideband conditions, and the variation of wave energy was also analyzed in the evolution. The results indicate that Benjamin - Feir instability （ sideband instability） is an important mechanism for freak wave formation.

Some theoretical aspects of elastic wave modeling with a recently developed spectral element method

A spectral element method has been recently developed for solving elastodynamic problems. The numerical solutions are obtained by using the weak formulation of the elastodynamic equation for heterogeneous media, based on the Galerkin approach applied to a partition, in small subdomains, of the original physical domain. In this work, some mathematical aspects of the method and the associated algorithm implementation are systematically investigated. Two kinds of orthogonal basis functions, constructed with Legendre and Chebyshev polynomials, and their related Gauss-Lobatto collocation points are introduced. The related integration formulas are obtained. The standard error estimations and expansion convergence are discussed. An element-by-element pre-conditioned conjugate gradient linear solver in the space domain and a staggered predictor/multi-corrector algorithm in the time integration are used for strong heterogeneous elastic media. As a consequence, neither the global matrices nor the effective force vector is assembled. When analytical formulas are used for the element quadrature, there is even no need for forming element matrix in order to further save memory without losing much in computational efficiency. The element-by-element algorithm uses an optimal tensor product scheme which makes this method much more efficient than finite-element methods from the point of view of both memory storage and computational time requirements. This work is divided into two parts. The first part mainly focuses on theoretical studies with a simple numerical result for the Che-byshev spectral element, and the second part, mainly with the Legendre spectral element, will give the algorithm implementation, numerical accuracy and efficiency analyses, and then the detailed modeling example comparisons of the proposed spectral element method with a pseudo-spectral method, which will be seen in another work by Lin, Wang and Zhang.

基于可见光-近红外高光谱信息与数据融合的木质化鸡胸肉的判别模型构建

木质化鸡胸肉(wooden breast,WB)制约肉鸡行业发展,传统触诊检测方法耗时且效率低,为提升高光谱成像(hyperspectral imaging,HSI)技术检测鸡胸肉木质化程度的效果,本论文以白羽鸡鸡胸肉为研究对象,将其划分4个木质化等级,采集其在400~1000和1000~2000 nm内的HSI信息,通过不同光谱预处理算法和特征波段筛选方法,建立基于全波段、特征波段和HSI数据融合的偏最小二乘判别分析(Partial least squares-discriminant analysis,PLS-DA)模型和支持向量机(Support vector machine,SVM)模型。结果显示,SVM模型比PLSDA模型更适于判别鸡胸肉木质化程度,基于1000~2000 nm内全波段和特征波段的最佳模型预测集总体正确率均高于400~1000 nm内的模型,基于两波段HSI数据融合的木质化判别模型优于基于单一波段(包括全波段和特征波段)的模型,最佳模型预测集总体正确率为96.7%,能较好地区分出4个木质化等级,且对4个等级的判别准确率均可达90%以上。研究结果为HSI实现木质化鸡胸肉的准确无损检测提供技术支持。

含流体裂缝介质中地震波场数值模拟

油气勘探开发实践证明,裂缝常常是油气藏存储的空间或运移的通道,因此,裂缝各向异性介质中地震波场的研究越来越倍受关注,国内外很多岩石物理学者、地球物理专家等对裂缝信息的描述提出了很多理论认识与方法技术.本文根据Eshelby-Cheng各向异性裂缝介质模型理论,求取各向异性裂缝介质的弹性参数,并建立Eshelby-Cheng各向异性裂缝介质的波动方程,利用时间错格伪谱法对含流体裂缝介质进行数值模拟,模拟结果表明,采用时间错格伪谱法能有效解决各向异性介质的波场传播,利用时间错格有限差分算子替代普通的差分算子来求解时间导数,利用快速傅氏变换求解空间导数,大大提高了正演模拟的计算精度与计算效率.并且与各向同性介质相比,地震波在含流体裂缝各向异性介质中的传播要复杂得多,各向同性介质层中的波是纯的,其横波不会发生分裂,而在各向异性介质层中,横波将发生分裂.

太湖波浪数值模拟

在太湖实际波浪观测的基础上,采用率定验证后的第三代动谱平衡方程,考虑实际水底地形、波浪折射、浅化、反射、破碎、湖流等条件下,对太湖波浪进行数值模拟,研究太湖波浪的主要影响因素.结果表明:SWAN模型可以较好地模拟风作用下太湖风浪的生成和传播过程,模型在太湖应用是合适的;波高、波长、波周期等波浪参数在太湖的分布与风速、风向、水深等因素密切相关;在相同风向、不同风速情况下,太湖波浪发展至稳定状态的时间不一样;在不同风向,相同风速持续作用下,有效波高达到稳定的时间差不多,变化趋势也比较相同.说明波浪的发展不光取决于风速的大小,还同风的持续吹的时间和风区长度有关.

复杂非均匀介质伪谱法波场数值模拟

在地震波场数值正演模拟方法的研究中,计算精度和计算效率是评价方法的有效性及优越性的2个关键问题。从—阶速度—应力弹性波动方程出发,利用伪谱法求解波动方程,对复杂非均匀介质模型中的波场进行了正演模拟,并利用经典的Mamousi速度模型验证了该方法所具有的优势及存在的问题。将伪谱法模拟结果与交错网格高阶有限差分法的模拟结果比较可知：对于较为简单的非均匀模型,伪谱法和交错网格高阶有限差分法生成了几乎相同的波场；而当模型非常复杂且存在变化较剧烈的速度间断面时,伪谱法的模拟结果比较差。尽管如此,伪谱法计算速度快,计算效率高,能够直观、高效地反映介质中波场的传播规律。因而仍不失为一种很好的地震波模拟方法。

用线性化全球原始方程谱模式研究地形强迫行星波垂直传播特征

本文用线性化全球原始方程谱模式来研究地形强迫行星波的垂直传播过程及演变特征.模式的积分结果表明:行星波的能量沿两支波导进行传播,在波从对流层向平流层传播中,极地波导起着主要作用.由于重力波破碎的阻尼作用,地形强迫的行星波无论它的波作用量或振幅都呈现振荡状态.

谱元法数值模拟地震波传播

谱元法基于弹性力学方程弱形式基础之上,在有限单元上进行谱展开,从而使该方法具备了有限元适应任意复杂介质模型的韧性和伪谱法的精度,该方法又被称为高阶有限元方法或伪谱法的域分解,同时为地震波传播的数值模拟提供一种方法。本文阐述了基于Legendre多项式的谱元法的理论和推导过程,相对于Chebychev谱元法,Legendre谱元法可以形成对角的全局质量矩阵,这样可以形成显式的时间差分算法,提高运算效率。最后,进行了复杂介质的各向同性地震波数值模拟,结果表明这是数值模拟地震波传播的有效方法。

基于ARMA模型的海浪功率谱估计方法研究

针对经典功率谱估计方法的一些缺点,对随即海浪过程进行了ARMA谱估计的仿真研究,仿真的结果表明ARMA功率谱估计方法在分辨率、平滑和偏差等方面更加有效。

SWAN模式中谱空间离散方案对台风浪模拟的影响研究

分别设计3种频率范围和8种方向间隔共24种谱空间离散方案,采用SWAN海浪模式对Winnie(1997)台风浪进行了数值模拟,并利用Topex/Poseidon卫星高度计观测的有效波高对各种方案的模拟结果进行对比分析,讨论了不同谱空间离散方案对台风浪模拟的影响。结果表明,频率范围相同的情况下,有效波高的模拟误差基本上随着方向间隔减小而减小,模拟结果对方向间隔分辨率比较敏感。方向间隔相同的情况下,SWAN模式默认频率范围(0.04～1.0Hz)模拟效果是所选择的3种频率范围中最差的,但不同频率范围模拟结果差别并不十分明显。方向间隔和频率范围存在相互匹配问题,当两者不匹配时会增大模拟误差。

二维随机介质及波动方程正演模拟

奚先 ,姚姚 .二维随机介质及波动方程正演模拟 .石油地球物理勘探 ,2 0 0 1,36 (5 ) :5 4 6～ 5 5 2 本文介绍了随机介质模型的基本概念 ,提出了一种根据随机过程的谱分解理论构造随机介质模型的新方法 ;并以二维指数型椭圆自相关函数为例进行了若干二维随机介质模型的正演模拟。结果显示 ,这些随机介质模型能灵活地描述实际介质。本文还利用有限差分法正演模拟了随机介质模型中弹性波的传播及其自激自收时间记录。正演计算结果表明 ,随机介质模型理论具有适应性强 ,使用方便、灵活 ,能有效地模拟油气藏细节的优点 ,是油藏 (或油储 )地球物理中值得进一步深入研究的课题 。

谱方程模型在设计波要素计算中的应用

为分析谱方程模型在设计波要素计算中的适用性,以长江口口内水域的设计波要素推算为例,首先利用海图数据及长江口河口段地形数据构建波浪数学模型(MIKE21-SW模块),并验证了寒潮期间南槽东测站的风浪过程。然后对长江口附近气象站风速资料进行分析,确定计算水域的设计风速。最后在验证模型适用性的基础上,计算得到特定水域的设计波浪要素。