Based on the linear wave, solitary wave and fifth order stokes wave derived by use of the Unified Variational Principle of Water Gravity Wave (UVPWGW), this paper derives stream function wave theory by using UVPWGW. T...Based on the linear wave, solitary wave and fifth order stokes wave derived by use of the Unified Variational Principle of Water Gravity Wave (UVPWGW), this paper derives stream function wave theory by using UVPWGW. This paper will handle the Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition (KFSBC) and Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition (DFSBC) directly and give the optimum solution, instead of the conditions Sigma(Q(av) - Q(i))(2) = min, and the related equations of stational condition. When the wave height H, period T and water depth D are given, the original stream function wave will be determined, and can not be adjusted if it does not agree with the real case; in the present method, the adjustment can be done by adding several constraint conditions, for example, the wave profile can be adjusted according to the condition of accurate peak position. The examples given in this paper show that for the original stream function wave, the DFSBC can be fairly well satisfied, but the KFSBC can not; however, the stream function wave derived by UVPWGW is better than the original one in the sense of minimum error squares in the aspect of the level at which KFSBC and DFSBC are satisfied.展开更多
Some new results of the modeling of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up are presented. The stream function wave theory is applied to incident short waves. The limiting wave steepness is adopted as the wave break...Some new results of the modeling of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up are presented. The stream function wave theory is applied to incident short waves. The limiting wave steepness is adopted as the wave breaker index in the calculation of wave breaking dissipation. The model is based on Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method (Watson et al., 1992), with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up. The short wave (or incident primary wave) energy equation is solved by use of a traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. The present model is found to be satisfactory compared with the measurements conducted by Stive (1983).展开更多
文摘Based on the linear wave, solitary wave and fifth order stokes wave derived by use of the Unified Variational Principle of Water Gravity Wave (UVPWGW), this paper derives stream function wave theory by using UVPWGW. This paper will handle the Kinematic Free Surface Boundary Condition (KFSBC) and Dynamic Free Surface Boundary Condition (DFSBC) directly and give the optimum solution, instead of the conditions Sigma(Q(av) - Q(i))(2) = min, and the related equations of stational condition. When the wave height H, period T and water depth D are given, the original stream function wave will be determined, and can not be adjusted if it does not agree with the real case; in the present method, the adjustment can be done by adding several constraint conditions, for example, the wave profile can be adjusted according to the condition of accurate peak position. The examples given in this paper show that for the original stream function wave, the DFSBC can be fairly well satisfied, but the KFSBC can not; however, the stream function wave derived by UVPWGW is better than the original one in the sense of minimum error squares in the aspect of the level at which KFSBC and DFSBC are satisfied.
基金This project was supported by the Fok Ying Tung Education Foundation(Grant No.81068)and the China-Australia Institutional Links Project.
文摘Some new results of the modeling of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up are presented. The stream function wave theory is applied to incident short waves. The limiting wave steepness is adopted as the wave breaker index in the calculation of wave breaking dissipation. The model is based on Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method (Watson et al., 1992), with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up. The short wave (or incident primary wave) energy equation is solved by use of a traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. The present model is found to be satisfactory compared with the measurements conducted by Stive (1983).
