Analysis of wave shoaling and shore-breakers on a low tide terrace beach based on in-situ measurements at Xisha Bay on South China coast

Low tide terrace beach is a main beach type along South China coasts with strong tidal actions.How strong tides affect wave transformations on low tide terrace beach still remains unclear.In this study,in-situ measurements are conducted on the low terrace beach at Xisha Bay to provide quantitative descriptions of wave shoaling and shore-breaker phenomena under the tidal effects.It is found that wave breaking is unsaturated on the low tide terrace beach at Xisha Bay.Magnitudes of wave skewness and asymmetry increase as wave shoals and achieve the maximum value at the shore-breaker,and then decrease rapidly.Mean energy dissipation rates of shore-breakers are tide-modulated since the bottom slope changes at the shoreward boundary of wave propagation in a tidal cycle.The remaining wave energy flux at the initialization of the shore-breaker is 1%–12%of offshore wave energy flux,and the energy flux ratio decreases with increasing offshore wave heights.Wave attenuation at shore-breakers can be estimated directly from offshore wave conditions based on findings in this study,favoring designs of seawalls or beach nourishment projects.Field datasets on wave transformations can also be used for verifications of wave numerical models.

A study of SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves in the north of the South China Sea:Ⅰ.Simulation of internal tide transformation

For settlement of the well-known problem of contemporary radar imaging models, i. e. , the problem of a general underestimation of radar signatures of hydrodynamic features over oceanic internal waves and underwater bottom topography in tidal waters at high radar frequency bands （ X-band and C-band）, the impact of the ocean surface mixed layer turbulence and the significance of strat- ified oceanic model on SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves are proposed. In the north of the South China Sea by utilizing some observed data of background field the nonlinearity coefficient, the dispersion coefficient, the horizontal variability coefficient and the phase speed in the generalized K-dV equation are determined approximately. Through simulations of internal tide transfor- mation the temporal evolution and spatial distribution of the vertical displacement and horizontal velocity of internal wave field are obtained. The simulation results indicate that the maximum amplitudes of internal solitary waves occur at depth 35 m, but the maximum current speeds take place at depth 20 m in this area of the sea （about 20°30＇N, 114°E） in August. It was noticed that considering the effects of flood current and ebb current respectively is appropriate to investigate influence of the background shear flow on coefficients of the K-dV equation. The obtained results provide the possibility for the simulation of SAR signatures of internal solitary waves under considering the impact of ocean surface mixed layer turbulence in the companion paper.

Computation of Wave, Tide and Wind Current for the South China Sea Under Tropical Cyclones

Based on the third-generation oceanic wave prediction model (WAVEWATCH (.) III) the third-generation nearshore wave calculation model (SWAN) and the mathematical tide, tidal current and cyclone current model, which have been improved, interconnected and expanded, a coupled model of offshore wave, tide and sea current under tropical cyclone surges in the South China Sea has been established. The coupled model is driven by the tropical cyclone field containing the background wind field. In order to test the hindcasting effect of the mathematical model, a comparison has been made between the calculated results and the observational results of waves of 15 cyclone cases, water levels and current velocities of the of 7 cyclones. The results of verification indicate that the calculated and observed results are basically identical.

Design,Optimization and Numerical Modelling of A Novel Floating Pendulum Wave Energy Converter with Tide Adaptation

A novel floating pendulum wave energy converter （WEC） with the ability of tide adaptation is designed and presented in this paper. Aiming to a high efficiency, the buoy＇s hydrodynamic shape is optimized by enumeration and comparison. Furthermore, in order to keep the buoy＇s well-designed leading edge always facing the incoming wave straightly, a novel transmission mechanism is then adopted, which is called the tidal adaptation mechanism in this paper. Time domain numerical models of a floating pendulum WEC with or without tide adaptation mechanism are built to compare their performance on various water levels. When comparing these two WECs in terms of their average output based on the linear passive control strategy, the output power of WEC with the tide adaptation mechanism is much steadier with the change of the water level and always larger than that without the tide adaptation mechanism.

Observation of interactions between internal tides and near-inertial waves after typhoon passage in the northern South China Sea

During the observational period of our study, Typhoon Hagupit passed over the mooring site and induced strong near-inertial waves （NIWs）, which provided an opportunity to investigate the interactions between internal tides （ITs） and NIWs. Based on the mooring data, we compared the current spectra during the typhoon period and non-typhoon period in the northern South China Sea, and found that the high- frequency waves （fD1 and fD2） were evident during the former. Moreover, the observations of the current revealed that fD1 and fD2 occurred near the depth of strong vertical shear in the NlWs. In order to confirm the generation mechanism of fD1 and fD2, we compared the positions of strong vertical shear in the NIWs and strong vertical velocity in the ITs. It was established that the vertical shear of the horizontal current of the NIWs and the vertical current of the ITs contributed to the generation of fDt and fD2.

Mechanistic Drifting Forecast Model for A Small Semi-Submersible Drifter Under Tide–Wind–Wave Conditions

Understanding the drifting motion of a small semi-submersible drifter is of vital importance regarding monitoring surface currents and the floating pollutants in coastal regions. This work addresses this issue by establishing a mechanistic drifting forecast model based on kinetic analysis. Taking tide–wind–wave into consideration, the forecast model is validated against in situ drifting experiment in the Radial Sand Ridges. Model results show good performance with respect to the measured drifting features, characterized by migrating back and forth twice a day with daily downwind displacements. Trajectory models are used to evaluate the influence of the individual hydrodynamic forcing. The tidal current is the fundamental dynamic condition in the Radial Sand Ridges and has the greatest impact on the drifting distance. However, it loses its leading position in the field of the daily displacement of the used drifter. The simulations reveal that different hydrodynamic forces dominate the daily displacement of the used drifter at different wind scales. The wave-induced mass transport has the greatest influence on the daily displacement at Beaufort wind scale 5–6; while wind drag contributes mostly at wind scale 2–4.

Characteristics of internal-wave and internal-tide deposits and their hydrocarbon potential

The study of internal-wave and internal-tide deposits is a new research field on sedimentology during the last ten years. Deep-water traction currents induced by internal waves and internal tides are developed on the modern sea floor, which can form not only all kinds of small scale and dispersal deepwater traction currents deposits, but also large-scale sediment wave in km-size scale. In this paper, the concepts and features of internal waves and internal tides in oceanography are introduced, and the characteristics, sedimentary sequences, sedimentary microfacies and sedimentation models of internalwave and internal-tide deposits found and the origin of large scale sediment waves in deep sea bottom are summarized. The relationship between internal-wave and internal-tide deposits and petroleum is discussed, and finally internal-wave and internal-tide deposits are shown to be a new potential field for petroleum exploration.

Effects of winds,tides and storm surges on ocean surface waves in the Sea of Japan

Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyS, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions.

NUMERICAL STUDY OF THE INFLUENCE OF WAVES AND TIDE-SURGE INTERACTION ON TIDE-SURGES IN THE BOHAI SEA

The author’s combined numerical model consisting of a third generation shallow water wave model and a 3 D tide surge model with wave dependent surface wind stress were used to study the influence of waves on tide surge motion. For the typical weather case, in this study, the magnitude and mechanism of the influence of waves on tide surges in the Bohai Sea were revealed for the first time. The results showed that although consideration of the wave dependent surface wind stresses raise slightly the traditional surface wind stress, due to the accumulated effects, the computed results are improved on the whole. Storm level maximum modulation can reach 0.4 m. The results computed by the combined model agreed well with the measured data.

INTERNAL TIDES, SOLITARY WAVES AND BORES IN SHALLOW SEAS

Remote sensing and in situ observations of internal tides, solitary waves and bores in shallow water are briefly reviewed in this paper. The emphasis is laid on interpreting SAR images based on oceanographic measurements, and analyzing characteristics of internal waves in the China Seas. Directions for future research are discussed.

Wave-tide-surge coupled model simulation for Typhoon Maemi

Reasonably accurate predictions of wave heights, current and elevations during storm events are vital information for marine operations and design of offshore and coastal structures in the surrounding seas of Korea Peninsula. Ocean circulation and wind-wave models have traditionally been run separately, but recent researches have identified potentially important interactions between current and wave motions. The coupled tide-surge and the WAM wave models at the atmospheric boundary layer and bottom boundary layer around the Korea Peninsula are applied for the Typhoon Maemi （0314） event. Communication between the models is aehievod using MPI. Results are compared with coastal tide gauges and moored wave buoys and comparisons are also made between wave computations from the coupled model and the independent third generation wave models. Results suggest that applying the fide-surge-coupled model can be an effective means of obtaining wave and storm surge predictions simultaneously.

Application of SWAN+ADCIRC to tide-surge and wave simulation in Gulf of Maine during Patriot's Day storm

The southern coast of the Gulf of Maine in the United States is prone to flooding caused by nor＇easters. A state-of-the-art fully-coupled model, the Simulating WAves Nearshore （SWAN） model with unstructured grids and the ADvanced CIRCulation （ADCIRC） model, was used to study the hydrodynamic response in the Gulf of Maine during the Patriot＇s Day storm of 2007, a notable example of nor＇easters in this area. The model predictions agree well with the observed tide-surges and waves during this storm event. Waves and circulation in the Gulf of Maine were analyzed. The Georges Bank plays an important role in dissipating wave energy through the bottom friction when waves propagate over the bank from offshore to the inner gulf due to its shallow bathymetry. Wave energy dissipation results in decreasing significant wave height （SWH） in the cross-bank direction and wave radiation stress gradient, which in turn induces changes in currents. While the tidal currents are dominant over the Georges Bank and in the Bay of Fundy, the residual currents generated by the meteorological forcing and waves are significant over the Georges Bank and in the coastal area and can reach 0.3 m/s and 0.2 m/s, respectively. In the vicinity of the coast, the longshore current generated by the surface wind stress and wave radiation stress acting parallel to the coastline is inversely proportional to the water depth and will eventually be limited by the bottom friction. The storm surge level reaches 0.8 m along the western periphery of the Gulf of Maine while the wave set-up due to radiation stress variation reaches 0.2 m. Therefore, it is significant to coastal flooding.

Wave-Tide-Surge Coupled Simulation for Typhoon Maemi

The main task of this study focuses on studying the effect of wave-current interaction on currents, storm surge and wind wave as well as effects of current induced wave refraction and current on waves by using numerical models which consider the bottom boundary layer and sea surface roughness parameter for shallow and smooth bed area around Korean Peninsula. The coupled system （unstructured-mesh SWAN wave and ADCIRC） run on the same unstructured mesh. This identical and homogeneous mesh allows the physics of wave-circulation interactions to be correctly resolved in both models. The unstructured mesh can be applied to a large domain allowing all energy from deep to shallow waters to be seamlessly followed. There is no nesting or overlapping of structured wave meshes, and no interpolation is required. In response to typhoon Maemi （2003）, all model components were validated independently, and shown to provide a faithful representation of the system＇s response to this storm. The waves and storm surge were allowed to develop on the continental shelf and interact with the complex nearshore environment. The resulting modeling system can be used extensively for prediction of the typhoon surge. The result show that it is important to incorporate the wave-current interaction effect into coastal area in the wave-tide-surge coupled model. At the same time, it should consider effects of depth-induced wave breaking, wind field, currents and sea surface elevation in prediction of waves. Specially, we found that： （1） wave radiation stress enhanced the current and surge elevation otherwise wave enhanced nonlinear bottom boundary layer decreased that, （2） wind wave was significantly controlled by sea surface roughness thus we cautiously took the experimental expression. The resulting modeling system can be used for hindcasting （prediction） the wave-tide-surge coupled environments at complex coastline, shallow water and fine sediment area like areas around Korean Peninsula.

The summertime circulation of the Bohai Sea simulated from a high-resolution wave-tide-circulation coupled model

The Bohai Sea is a shallow semi-enclosed inner sea with an average depth of 18 m and is located at the west of the northern Yellow Sea. The climatological circulation pattern in summer of the Bohai Sea is studied by using a wave-tide-circulation coupled model. The simulated temperature and the circulation agree with the observation well. The result shows that the circulation pattern of the Bohai Sea is jointly influenced by the tidal residual current, wind and baroclinic current. There exists an obvious density current along the temperature front from the west part of the Liaodong Bay to the offshore area of the Huanghe Estuary. In the Liaodong Bay there exists a clockwise gyre in the area north to the 40°N. While in the area south to the 40°N the circulation shows a two-gyre structure, the flow from the offshore area of the Huanghe Estuary to the Liaodong Bay splits into two branches in the area between 39°N and 40°N. The west branch turns into north-west and forms an anti-clockwise gyre with the south-westward density current off the west of the Liaodong Bay. The east branch turns to the east and forms a clockwise gyre with the flow along the east coast of the Liaodong Bay. The forming mechanism of the circulation is also discussed in this paper.

Effects of tide-surge interaction and wave set-up/set-down on surge: case studies of tropical cyclones landing China's Zhe-Min coast

Storm surge along the China＇s Zhe-Min coast is addressed using the tightly coupled surge model ofADCIRC＋SWAN. In this study, we primarily focus on the effects of surge-tide interaction and waveset-up/set-down. And the influences of intensity and landing moment of tropical cyclone （TC） arealso presented. The results show that： water elevation without considering tide-surge interactiontends to be underestimated/overestimated when TC lands during astronomical low/high tide;tide-surge coupling effect is more pronounced north of TC track （more than 0.7 m in our cases）;irrelevant to TC＇s intensity, wave set-up south of TC track is negligible because the depth-relatedwave breaking doesn＇t occur in water body blown towards open seas.

Study of Wave and Tide Influence on Slope Stability of the Navigation Channel of Tianjin Port

The Tianjin Port is the largest man-made port in China. Since the navigation channel of the Tianjin Port is constructed by dredging, a very important problem, as many people concerned, is the submarine slope stability. As the environment on land is different from that in submarine, it is necessary to evaluate the influence of the environmental loading, such as wave and tide, on the stability of navigation channel slope. In the present study, based on the observed results, the characteristics of the navigation channel slope are summarized, and the causes of creating the special slope shape are analyzed. The ioles of waves and tides are evaluated, and failure mechanics are discussed to helq us predict what will happen in the future.

Nonlinear Interactions between the Quasi 5-day Wave and Tides Based on Meteor Radar Observations at Maui

Nonlinear interactions between the quasi 5-day wave and tides based on meteor radar observation in the Mesosphere and Lower Thermosphere(MLT) at Maui are studied in this paper.Strong sum interaction between quasi 5-day wave and diurnal tide,and evident difference interaction between quasi 5-day wave and semidiurnal tide are observed during the time of attention.However,their difference and sum counterparts are clearly weaker.The secondary waves generated from those interactions beat with the tide and show intense modulation at the period of 5 days which confirms the existence of their interactions.Additionally,correlation coefficients among these waves are calculated to further explore their interactions and find that they can persist for several days although they are highly intermittent.The energy exchange among these waves can be reversible during the observational time.The periods when the significant difference interaction between the quasi 5-day wave and semidiurnal tide occur are much shorter than those when the significant sum interaction between the quasi 5-day wave and diurnal tide occur.Moreover,these two strong interactions can take place simultaneously.In generally,this study provides the proof of nonlinear interactions between quasi 5-day wave and tides which were seldom reported before.

Study on the Tidal Wave System and Formation Mechanism of M_2 Tide in the Taiwan Strait

To study the Taiwan Strait （TS）, an unusual sea area, the numerical model in marginal seas of China is used to simulate and analyze the tidal wave motion in the strait. The numerical modeling experiments reproduce the amphidromic system of the M2 tide in the south end of the Taiwan strait, and consequently confirm the existence of the degenerate amphidromic system. On this basis, further discussion is conducted on the M2 system and its formation mechanism. It can be concluded that the tidal waves of the TS is consisted of the progressing wave from the north entrance and the degenerate amphidromic system from the south entrance, in which the progressing wave from the north entrance dominates the tidal wave motion in the strait. Except for the convergent effect caused by the landform and boundary, the degenerate amphidromic system produced in the south of the strait is another important factor for the following phenomena： the large tidal range in the middle of the strait, the concentrative zone of co-amplitude and co-phase line in the south of the strait. The degenerate amphidromic system is mainly produced by the incident Pacific Ocean tidal wave from the Luzon strait and the action by the shoreline and landform. The position of the amphidromic point is compelled to move toward southwest until degenerating by the powerful progressing wave from the north entrance.

Seismic Theory of Tides; Theory of Forced Seismic Waves

Proceeding from the statement about presence of the normal resilient medium in the cosmic space, the author concludes seismic nature of tides and a number of other aspects of this phenomenon. The analysis of contradiction of the theory of tsunami to empiric facts led the author to conclude that the tsunami are forced and not free waves, and that the key moment in their distribution is the seismic compression of water.

INFLUENCE OF CURRENIS ON WAVES AT STRONG TIDE AND ESTUARY AREA

As known to all, tides and river discharge at both the Yangtze River Estuary and Hangzhou Bay are quite strong. So the wave data measured at these regions must have been affected by current. Since the combination of current with wave climate is a random process, i. e. spring tide may be met with small waves, or neap tide with strong waves, so the measured wave data related to the wind data have great divergence under the influence of current. In this paper, based on the research of wave refraction by influence of both current and water depth (Pan and Li, 1987), the influence of tide current and river discharge on the wave parameters in Luojing area of Yangtze River Etuary and Beilum harbour area are discussed. As a conclusion, for determining the design wave in still water, or for establishing the relationship between waves and winds, pure wave data should be separated from the measured wave data.