The goal of this research is to describe and analyze women’s wear in the late Qing Dynasty andearly Republic Period(late 19th c.—early 20th c.),with an emphasis on the daily informal orsemi-formal wear,though some f...The goal of this research is to describe and analyze women’s wear in the late Qing Dynasty andearly Republic Period(late 19th c.—early 20th c.),with an emphasis on the daily informal orsemi-formal wear,though some formal or ceremonial costumes such as wedding dress will also beincluded.This study will use Chinese costumes and textiles from many museums to fill in theblanks left by previous research and to give a more detailed and accurate description.It will alsouse historical documents to find the original names of these items and to illustrate a general conceptof their usage on different occasions.The different categories of women’s wear will be described in the following order:①robes orcoats;②jackets;③waistcoats or vests;④skirts;⑤pants and leggings;⑥shoes and socks;⑦headdresses;and⑧others.Of every category,the textiles,decoration,cut,form,style,colourand motif will be discussed.The way in which these items were combined will also be discussed.The comparison between women’s wear and men’s wear,women’s and children’s informal andformal dress will be given.Here are some tentative conclusions.First,the Manchu and Han style coexisted and mixedwith each other and were worn by both Manchu and Han women.Second,the basic silhouettesand cuts were relatively stable and conventional,while the decorations and details(openings,fasten-ings,pleats,vents,collars and hemlines)were different.The former represented accepted socialstandards while the latter could be a matter of personal taste.Third,women’s wear in that periodwere highly stylized,miscellaneous,elaborate,detailed,multicolored and multi-thematic.展开更多
During the late Qing Dynasty and the early period of the Republic of China(1870-1930),the social classes in Yangzhou were basically dominated by officials,businessmen,and scholars.In the building number,scale,and func...During the late Qing Dynasty and the early period of the Republic of China(1870-1930),the social classes in Yangzhou were basically dominated by officials,businessmen,and scholars.In the building number,scale,and functional evolution of their home gardens,these three classes were different,reflecting abundant connotation of characteristic of the time and regional culture,revealing the inheritance path of Yangzhou culture,as well as the richness and diversity of home gardens in Yangzhou during the late Qing Dynasty and the early period of the Republic of China.展开更多
Based on the conclusion of modern scientific analysis: the cobalt-blue pigment applied on Jingdezhen official porcelain during Yuan Dynasty and prior to Xuande reign of Ming Dynasty (1271―1425) contains high iron and...Based on the conclusion of modern scientific analysis: the cobalt-blue pigment applied on Jingdezhen official porcelain during Yuan Dynasty and prior to Xuande reign of Ming Dynasty (1271―1425) contains high iron and low manganese con- tents, and the cobalt during Xuande and after Xuande periods (after 1426) of Ming Dynasty contains high manganese and low iron contents, in combination with the traditional archaeological method, the related historical textual records were in- vestigated and analyzed, the imported cobalt employed on Jingdezhen official porcelain was studied comprehensively, systematically and logically. In fact, 'Su Ma Li Qing' (Samarra-blue) and 'Su Bo Ni Qing' (Sumatra-blue) are definitely different cobalt ores originated in different places, because of their very similar translitera- tions in Chinese, the confusion has appeared in ancient books for more than 400 years, which considered 'Su Ma Li Qing' and 'Su Bo Ni Qing' as the same co- balt-blue pigment. In this article the mistake was corrected, the possible producing places and the approximate eras of the two pigments imported to China and used at Jingdezhen were also suggested.展开更多
文摘The goal of this research is to describe and analyze women’s wear in the late Qing Dynasty andearly Republic Period(late 19th c.—early 20th c.),with an emphasis on the daily informal orsemi-formal wear,though some formal or ceremonial costumes such as wedding dress will also beincluded.This study will use Chinese costumes and textiles from many museums to fill in theblanks left by previous research and to give a more detailed and accurate description.It will alsouse historical documents to find the original names of these items and to illustrate a general conceptof their usage on different occasions.The different categories of women’s wear will be described in the following order:①robes orcoats;②jackets;③waistcoats or vests;④skirts;⑤pants and leggings;⑥shoes and socks;⑦headdresses;and⑧others.Of every category,the textiles,decoration,cut,form,style,colourand motif will be discussed.The way in which these items were combined will also be discussed.The comparison between women’s wear and men’s wear,women’s and children’s informal andformal dress will be given.Here are some tentative conclusions.First,the Manchu and Han style coexisted and mixedwith each other and were worn by both Manchu and Han women.Second,the basic silhouettesand cuts were relatively stable and conventional,while the decorations and details(openings,fasten-ings,pleats,vents,collars and hemlines)were different.The former represented accepted socialstandards while the latter could be a matter of personal taste.Third,women’s wear in that periodwere highly stylized,miscellaneous,elaborate,detailed,multicolored and multi-thematic.
基金Sponsored by Philosophical and Social Science Research Project in Colleges and Universities of Jiangsu Province in 2015(2015sjd751)
文摘During the late Qing Dynasty and the early period of the Republic of China(1870-1930),the social classes in Yangzhou were basically dominated by officials,businessmen,and scholars.In the building number,scale,and functional evolution of their home gardens,these three classes were different,reflecting abundant connotation of characteristic of the time and regional culture,revealing the inheritance path of Yangzhou culture,as well as the richness and diversity of home gardens in Yangzhou during the late Qing Dynasty and the early period of the Republic of China.
文摘Based on the conclusion of modern scientific analysis: the cobalt-blue pigment applied on Jingdezhen official porcelain during Yuan Dynasty and prior to Xuande reign of Ming Dynasty (1271―1425) contains high iron and low manganese con- tents, and the cobalt during Xuande and after Xuande periods (after 1426) of Ming Dynasty contains high manganese and low iron contents, in combination with the traditional archaeological method, the related historical textual records were in- vestigated and analyzed, the imported cobalt employed on Jingdezhen official porcelain was studied comprehensively, systematically and logically. In fact, 'Su Ma Li Qing' (Samarra-blue) and 'Su Bo Ni Qing' (Sumatra-blue) are definitely different cobalt ores originated in different places, because of their very similar translitera- tions in Chinese, the confusion has appeared in ancient books for more than 400 years, which considered 'Su Ma Li Qing' and 'Su Bo Ni Qing' as the same co- balt-blue pigment. In this article the mistake was corrected, the possible producing places and the approximate eras of the two pigments imported to China and used at Jingdezhen were also suggested.
