The goal of this research is to analyze and discuss the origin of Qipao as women's fashionable wear in the early Republic Period (1911-1949).The origin of Qipao fashion will be discussed in three aspects:1) discus...The goal of this research is to analyze and discuss the origin of Qipao as women's fashionable wear in the early Republic Period (1911-1949).The origin of Qipao fashion will be discussed in three aspects:1) discussion of the original time,place and consumer group of Qipao fashion;2) analysis of initial style and wear combination of Qipao,3) deduction of the origin of the name Qipao.Besides,the analysis will also be given about Qipao's aesthetic characters,its production,consumption guarantee as well as its social backgrounds.The research will be made on the basis of the principles and methods of history,social psychology of clothing and design,and will use many materials especially historical writings and publications to give a more detailed discussion.Here are some tentative conclusions. Firstly, Qipao as a kind of one-piece dress was not inherited directly from the robe of Banner Style. It was a new fashion in the 1920s, which combined the elements of long vest called Qipao Majia, Wenming Xin Zhuang and the Western dress. Secondly, the Shanghai female students were the pioneering group wearing Qipao in 1925. Thirdly, the gradual acceptance of Qipao was mainly due to its aesthetic characters, production, consumption as well as social backgrounds at that time. And it was the kind of daily wear of many Chinese women after 1927. Fourthly, since Qipao represents the special clothing which integrated Chinese traditional style and the Western fashion in the early Republic Period, Qipao is advised to be taken as a special term to take the place of the previous ones like Mandarin Dress, Chipau and Cheongsam and so on.展开更多
During the late Qing Dynasty and the early period of the Republic of China(1870-1930),the social classes in Yangzhou were basically dominated by officials,businessmen,and scholars.In the building number,scale,and func...During the late Qing Dynasty and the early period of the Republic of China(1870-1930),the social classes in Yangzhou were basically dominated by officials,businessmen,and scholars.In the building number,scale,and functional evolution of their home gardens,these three classes were different,reflecting abundant connotation of characteristic of the time and regional culture,revealing the inheritance path of Yangzhou culture,as well as the richness and diversity of home gardens in Yangzhou during the late Qing Dynasty and the early period of the Republic of China.展开更多
The goal of this research is to describe and analyze women’s wear in the late Qing Dynasty andearly Republic Period(late 19th c.—early 20th c.),with an emphasis on the daily informal orsemi-formal wear,though some f...The goal of this research is to describe and analyze women’s wear in the late Qing Dynasty andearly Republic Period(late 19th c.—early 20th c.),with an emphasis on the daily informal orsemi-formal wear,though some formal or ceremonial costumes such as wedding dress will also beincluded.This study will use Chinese costumes and textiles from many museums to fill in theblanks left by previous research and to give a more detailed and accurate description.It will alsouse historical documents to find the original names of these items and to illustrate a general conceptof their usage on different occasions.The different categories of women’s wear will be described in the following order:①robes orcoats;②jackets;③waistcoats or vests;④skirts;⑤pants and leggings;⑥shoes and socks;⑦headdresses;and⑧others.Of every category,the textiles,decoration,cut,form,style,colourand motif will be discussed.The way in which these items were combined will also be discussed.The comparison between women’s wear and men’s wear,women’s and children’s informal andformal dress will be given.Here are some tentative conclusions.First,the Manchu and Han style coexisted and mixedwith each other and were worn by both Manchu and Han women.Second,the basic silhouettesand cuts were relatively stable and conventional,while the decorations and details(openings,fasten-ings,pleats,vents,collars and hemlines)were different.The former represented accepted socialstandards while the latter could be a matter of personal taste.Third,women’s wear in that periodwere highly stylized,miscellaneous,elaborate,detailed,multicolored and multi-thematic.展开更多
During the Beiyang period of the early Republic of China,the re-trial system 覆判 referred to the practice where cases considered by the county magistrate had to be sent to the provincial high court for re-trial to en...During the Beiyang period of the early Republic of China,the re-trial system 覆判 referred to the practice where cases considered by the county magistrate had to be sent to the provincial high court for re-trial to ensure that the case facts were true,the law was correctly applied,and the penalties were appropriate.The scope of the re-trial cases continuously expanded from 1912 to 1922 and,finally,the Amendment to the Statutes on the Re-trial System in 1922 stipulated that all cases under the jurisdiction of the district courts where county magistrates tried,whether through appeal or re-trial,had to be re-tried by the high court or its branches.The adjustment of the scope of the re-trial cases was closely related to the extent to which the county magistrates'judicial discretion was restricted.During the Beiyang period,due to the failure to establish fornial courts of the first instance in counties throughout the country,the county magistrates concurrently handled judicial affairs,which inevitably caused the magistrates’judicial discretion.The re-trial system was originally designed to compensate for the drawbacks of county magistrates managing judicial affairs and to facilitate the transition within the judicial system.However,the interpretation of the role of the re-trial system should not be limited to reconciliation and adaptation of the old and new judicial systems in the Beiyang period but also to compensate for the deficiencies of county magistrates,judgments by continuously improving the re-trial procedure and to ensure the fairness of justice through restrictions on the judicial discretion of county magistrates,the enjoyment of equality of procedures,and the establishment of supervision procedures.展开更多
文摘The goal of this research is to analyze and discuss the origin of Qipao as women's fashionable wear in the early Republic Period (1911-1949).The origin of Qipao fashion will be discussed in three aspects:1) discussion of the original time,place and consumer group of Qipao fashion;2) analysis of initial style and wear combination of Qipao,3) deduction of the origin of the name Qipao.Besides,the analysis will also be given about Qipao's aesthetic characters,its production,consumption guarantee as well as its social backgrounds.The research will be made on the basis of the principles and methods of history,social psychology of clothing and design,and will use many materials especially historical writings and publications to give a more detailed discussion.Here are some tentative conclusions. Firstly, Qipao as a kind of one-piece dress was not inherited directly from the robe of Banner Style. It was a new fashion in the 1920s, which combined the elements of long vest called Qipao Majia, Wenming Xin Zhuang and the Western dress. Secondly, the Shanghai female students were the pioneering group wearing Qipao in 1925. Thirdly, the gradual acceptance of Qipao was mainly due to its aesthetic characters, production, consumption as well as social backgrounds at that time. And it was the kind of daily wear of many Chinese women after 1927. Fourthly, since Qipao represents the special clothing which integrated Chinese traditional style and the Western fashion in the early Republic Period, Qipao is advised to be taken as a special term to take the place of the previous ones like Mandarin Dress, Chipau and Cheongsam and so on.
基金Sponsored by Philosophical and Social Science Research Project in Colleges and Universities of Jiangsu Province in 2015(2015sjd751)
文摘During the late Qing Dynasty and the early period of the Republic of China(1870-1930),the social classes in Yangzhou were basically dominated by officials,businessmen,and scholars.In the building number,scale,and functional evolution of their home gardens,these three classes were different,reflecting abundant connotation of characteristic of the time and regional culture,revealing the inheritance path of Yangzhou culture,as well as the richness and diversity of home gardens in Yangzhou during the late Qing Dynasty and the early period of the Republic of China.
文摘The goal of this research is to describe and analyze women’s wear in the late Qing Dynasty andearly Republic Period(late 19th c.—early 20th c.),with an emphasis on the daily informal orsemi-formal wear,though some formal or ceremonial costumes such as wedding dress will also beincluded.This study will use Chinese costumes and textiles from many museums to fill in theblanks left by previous research and to give a more detailed and accurate description.It will alsouse historical documents to find the original names of these items and to illustrate a general conceptof their usage on different occasions.The different categories of women’s wear will be described in the following order:①robes orcoats;②jackets;③waistcoats or vests;④skirts;⑤pants and leggings;⑥shoes and socks;⑦headdresses;and⑧others.Of every category,the textiles,decoration,cut,form,style,colourand motif will be discussed.The way in which these items were combined will also be discussed.The comparison between women’s wear and men’s wear,women’s and children’s informal andformal dress will be given.Here are some tentative conclusions.First,the Manchu and Han style coexisted and mixedwith each other and were worn by both Manchu and Han women.Second,the basic silhouettesand cuts were relatively stable and conventional,while the decorations and details(openings,fasten-ings,pleats,vents,collars and hemlines)were different.The former represented accepted socialstandards while the latter could be a matter of personal taste.Third,women’s wear in that periodwere highly stylized,miscellaneous,elaborate,detailed,multicolored and multi-thematic.
文摘During the Beiyang period of the early Republic of China,the re-trial system 覆判 referred to the practice where cases considered by the county magistrate had to be sent to the provincial high court for re-trial to ensure that the case facts were true,the law was correctly applied,and the penalties were appropriate.The scope of the re-trial cases continuously expanded from 1912 to 1922 and,finally,the Amendment to the Statutes on the Re-trial System in 1922 stipulated that all cases under the jurisdiction of the district courts where county magistrates tried,whether through appeal or re-trial,had to be re-tried by the high court or its branches.The adjustment of the scope of the re-trial cases was closely related to the extent to which the county magistrates'judicial discretion was restricted.During the Beiyang period,due to the failure to establish fornial courts of the first instance in counties throughout the country,the county magistrates concurrently handled judicial affairs,which inevitably caused the magistrates’judicial discretion.The re-trial system was originally designed to compensate for the drawbacks of county magistrates managing judicial affairs and to facilitate the transition within the judicial system.However,the interpretation of the role of the re-trial system should not be limited to reconciliation and adaptation of the old and new judicial systems in the Beiyang period but also to compensate for the deficiencies of county magistrates,judgments by continuously improving the re-trial procedure and to ensure the fairness of justice through restrictions on the judicial discretion of county magistrates,the enjoyment of equality of procedures,and the establishment of supervision procedures.
