4th China Warp Knitting Design Awards held successfully

On August 27, 2008, the Fourth Haining·China Warp-Knitting Design Awards Press Release and Signing Ceremony was held in Shanghai.

The Road of Meili Warp Knitting Cluster

The Town of Meili, Changshu is an old town that owns thousands years of history. The symbol of this small town in Jiangnan is the Tower of Jusha from South Song Dynasty. From the nineties of last century, Meili has begun her story as a leading industry cluster of warp knitting. Meili Town owns 46 warp knitting enterprises, and more than 560 family workshops, more than 1,800 sets of different kinds of warp knitting machineries. More than 70% of the domestic warp knitting machineries is bought by Meili town. The main products include more than 30 kinds of plush. The annual production capability reaches 10 tons and annual output reaches four billions. More than 30 companies sell their products to Russian, South Africa, Nigeria, Romania and Middle East. Meanwhile the development of the industry activate doubling, slitting, brushing, dyeing, gigging, home textile, apparel and other related industry. The town of Meili now owns a complete industrial chain from raw materials to warp knitting, finishing and final products.

Computer-aided Pattern Design of Multi-bar Warp Knitted Fabrics

To meet the development trend of multi-bar warp knit-ting machine towards high-speed,advanced technologyand computer control and the requirements of variousproducts with small quantity,there are many researcheson the computer-aided pattern design of multi-barwarp knitted fabrics.In terms of the special propertiesof the computer-aided pattern design of multi-barwarp knitted fabrics,the Object Oriented Program(OOP)programming-Object Windows class Library(OWL)programming is selected.According to thecharacters of the OWL programming,various functionsare defined.Pattern design and technical parameters canbe output,which offers a great convenience for the fac-tory.

Performance of Flexible Warp Knitting Metal Mesh with Notch

Three different kinds of notch involving single edge notch （ SEN）, double edge notch （ DEN ） and central notch （ CEN ） were preset in flexible warp knitting metal mesh, and the tensile properties of notch samples were tested. Three kinds of notch samples＇ sensitivity were investigated through different notch lengths. Then failure process and tensile properties were contrasted and analyzed between intact and notch samples. Experiment and analysis results showed that positive Poisson＇s ratio effect gave rise to obvious waist binding and special inverted triangle loading area. All samples were sensitive to three kinds of notches. And notch sensitivity was closely related to notch form and notch length. The notch procession obviously deteriorated the mechanical properties of flexible warp knitting metal mesh. Sample with different notch lengths and breakage locations determined different tensile strengths that sample could bear. The fitting function of waist binding track satisfied the parabolic equation.

Positions of Guide Eyes in Circular Warp Knitting Machines

The special lapping requirements were pointed out and the safe range to fix the guide eyes on the circular guide unit was determined by means of Locus Formulas of Warp sections in lapping movement, which were carried out on installing prototype machine. Based on the calculations of the force components acting on lapping points, the positions of the guide eyes in chain overlapping could be used to determine the safe range that could meet the requirements for tricot overlapping. The safe range can ensure the successful lapping and the multi-guide unit designing in circular warp-knitting machines.

The Application of Fractal to Design Knitted Sweaters

Pattern design is very important for knitting industry. Fractal theory is adopted to create image automatically, which is applied to design knitted sweaters. Based on Mandelbrot set(M-set), image could be generated automatically by visual basic (VB) program. Plenty of wonderful patterns are created by the following methods: selecting any parts of the image and magnifying, extending generalized M-set, editing the selected images with photoshop. The edited pattern is used to set on any parts of clothes to show fashion effect. Actual knitted structure is simulated by knitting CAD software. The results show that the fractal theory has greater potential applications in knitted pattern design, and it deserves further research.

Effect of Knitting Process on Elastic Property of Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET)/Polybutylene Terephthalate (PBT) Warp Knitted Fabric

This study investigated the elastic elongation and elastic recovery of the elastic warp knitted fabric made of polyethylene terephthalate( PET) and polybutylene terephthalate( PBT)filament. The effect of knitting parameter on the elasticity of PBT /PET warp knitted fabric was analyzed. The increase of drawing density( from 16 to 26 courses per centimeter( CPC)) on machine resulted in the decrease of elongation at the weft direction. But,the elongation at the warp direction fluctuated as drawing density increasing. The yarn run-in speed influenced the elongation of PET /PBT warp knitted fabric as well. When the yarn run-in speed of GB1( front bar) was kept a constant,the increase of GB2( back bar) yarn run-in speed caused the gradual enhancement of the elastic elongation at the warp direction,but the different trends of the elastic elongation at the weft direction. When yarn run-in speed of GB2 was kept a constant,the increase of GB1 yarn run-in speed enlarged the elastic warp elongation from 104.16 to 124.97 mm,while the weft elongation decreased from 110.34 to 98.03 mm.Eventually yarn run-in speeds of GB1 and GB2 were retained at1 360 and 1 170 mm / rack respectively under 20 CPC drawing density. It could not only balance the two directions of elongation but also reach the highest elongation at both directions( 126. 32 and115.88 mm) under 100 N tension. These results provide a better understanding of characteristics of PET / PBT warp knitted fabric,and its elastic elongation and recovery behavior for development and effective applications.

Estimation of Regression Function for Nonequispaced Samples Based on Warped Wavelets

We consider the problem of estimating an unknown density and its derivatives in a regression setting with random design. Instead of expanding the function on a regular wavelet basis, we expand it on the basis , a warped wavelet basis. We investigate the properties of this new basis and evaluate its asymptotic performance by determining an upper bound of the mean integrated squared error under different dependence structures. We prove that it attains a sharp rate of convergence for a wide class of unknown regression functions.

OPTIMAL SETTING-UP OF KNITTING ELEMENTS AND ITS EFFECT ON TENSION VARIATION

The dynamic yarn tension variations during knitting cycle are very difficult to control and be-come one of barriers to knitting on modern warp knitting machine.Examination of experimentaldata and theoretical analysis show that the relative position of spring rail to knitting elements suchas needle,guide as well as their displacement has noticeable effect on tension variation so that theknitting condition can be much improved by rearrangement of the knitting elements and theirmovement within a knitting cycle.

Effect of Run - in Ratios on the Mechanical Properties of Two - Guide Bars Warp - Knitted Fabrics

Warp knitting technology gets rapid development at present and becomes one of the most important parts of the textiles.But it is less known how the parameters of warp knitting technology affect the mechanical properties of warp-knitted fabrics.This paper presents discuss a research on the relationships between run-in ratio and mechanical properties of the two-bar warp-knittedfabrics through the measurement and analysis of the mechanical properties of various samples with different run-in ratios.The optimal run一in ratios for the reasonable mechanical properties are obtained from above dis-

Application of Bi-axial Warp Knitted Structures in Concrete Constructions

The warp knitted bi-axial directionally oriented structure (D. O. S. ) reinforcement substrates applied to building construction are discussed in comparison to woven fabrics. One of usage barriers of reinforced cement with gloss-grid is its sensitivity to alkali existed in the cement which will lead to the reduction of its service-life. The tests show that the treatment by sol-gel method to protect the composite from alkali corrosion is effective. Then two formulae of sol-gel solution are also recommended here for application.

In-plane Tensile Behaviors of Bi-axial Warp-Knitted Composites under Quasi-static and High Strain Rate Loading

The in-plane tensile behaviors of bi-axial warp-knitted(BWK) composites under quasi-static and high strain rates loading were experimentally analyzed in this article. The tensile tests were conducted along warp direction( 0°) and weft direction( 90°) at quasi-static rate of 0. 001 s^(-1) and high strain rates ranging from 1 450 to 2 540 s^(-1),respectively. It is found that the significant strain rate sensitivity can be observed in the stress-strain curves of BWK composites. The fracture morphologies of BWK composites demonstrate that the tensile failure modes are shear failure and fiber breakage under the quasi-static testing condition while interface failure and fibers pullout are at high strain rates.

Exploration and design of knitted composites for architectural application: The MeiTing project

Knitted composites are textile composite materials that consist of knitted textile reinforcement and polymer matrix. Knitted composites exhibit great design flexibility by allowing the customization of shapes, textures, and material properties. These features facilitate the optimization of buildings’ material systems and the creation of buildings with light weight and high material efficiency.To achieve such a lightweight, material-efficient building structure with knitted composites, this research investigates the material properties of knitted composites and proposes a design process for building-scale knitted composite systems. In the material study, this research examines certain mechanical properties of the material and the effects of additional design elements. In the design exploration, this research explores the design workflow of the structural form, element arrangement, and knit distribution of the material system at the macro-, meso-, and microscales. The project of MeiTing serves as proof of the concept and the design workflow.

The Mechanical Behaviour of Rubber Hose Reinforced with Warp Knitted Fabric

A new process for the rubber hose reinforced with warp knitted fabric was introduced, and the relation between the inside pressure and the radial expansion ratio of four kinds of rubber radiator hose reinforced with warp knitted fabric was investigated. The result showed that the bursting pressure and the radial direction expansion ratio of the hose could meet the requirement of ISO4081 for auto radiator hose. A new model was built up to analyse the relation between the inside pressure and the radial expansion ratio of the hose based the reinforced fabric structure parameters and yarn properties.

Influence of Wires Properties on Warp-Knitted Loop Geometry in Plane Based on Theory of Elastic Rod

Based on classic theory of elastic rod,the warp-knitted loop geometry in plane is independent of yarn properties,while there is a certain gap between the geometrical model and the actual fabrics.According to this problem,further analysis of loop geometry is done based on the theory of elastic rod with theoretical calculation and experiments.The theoretical analysis found that the distance between the contacted points at the loop root affected the loop geometry,and the distance was affected by the ratio of bending rigidity and the friction between yarns.The experiments,forming simple loop by taking the yarn as an elastic rod,found that the bending rigidity affected the loop geometry.Then the relationships between warp-knitted loop geometry in plane of metallic fabrics and wires properties were studied.The results show that metallic fabrics are more suitable for the theory of elastic rod;the friction and bending rigidity of wire yarns affect the loop geometry in plane.Also,the elongation of yarn affects the loop geometry in the actual warp-knitted fabric.

芳纶针织面料透气透湿及隔热性能研究

通过棉、蚕丝混纺纱,竹炭纤维、丙纶混纺纱和芳纶纱的科学搭配,由龙星制版系统进行双面针织物结构数字化设计,利用艺术设计方法有效地在结构和空间中进行科学合理的分配和排列,制备了纬编间隔织物和罗纹空气层织物,探讨了芳纶协同高舒适性双面针织物的透气透湿、隔热等性能。结果表明:通过有效的数字化方法所设计的空气层组织中,芳纶与竹炭、丙纶混纺纱搭配织造的空气层织物透气性更好,纬编间隔组织中,芳纶与竹炭、丙纶混纺纱间隔织物比芳纶与蚕丝、棉混纺纱间隔织物的透气性好。蚕丝的透湿性比竹炭纤维更好,更适用于制作服装纤维材料。

Research on Tearing Property of Reinforced Plastic Film with Bi-axial Warp Knitted Fabric Skeleton

The specification of laid-in and warp yams,thedensity of fabric and the specification of groundyam are of great importance when the bi-axialwarp knitted fabric being knitted.In this paper,the tearing property of the reinforced plastic filmwith bi-axial warp knitted fabric skeleton istested and analyzed.The resuits show thatamong the three factors,the specification of laid-in and warp yam has the greatest influence onthe tearing strength of the reinforced plastic film,while the rest of them has secondary and lesseffect respectively,and there is exponential re-lation between the tearing strength of the rein-forced plastic film and the number of yams in thedirection of force.

闪色效果针织面料工艺设计与应用

在进行纬编横向夹色编织的基础上,通过分析并利用双反面组织、变线圈织物、集圈组织线圈结构的特征,设计一系列具有闪色提花效果针织织物。分析3种针织组织的三维立体结构各部分空间遮盖的特点,结合织物闪色形成的原理,总结不同组织闪色规律。根据图案设计需求,采用不同显色区域、不同组织结构比例分配进行编织,可以形成图案形态灵活、不同角度色彩变化的闪色织物效果。探讨基于不同组织结构的闪色针织面料设计案例,分析其织物风格特点,同时给出在针织服装上应用的建议。

基于Criminisi算法的四经绞罗纹样修复研究

文章针对古代罗织物受到诸多因素影响而产生破损、难以提取修复这一问题,提出了一种结合开运算和Criminisi算法的图像修复方法。收集具有规律性特征的四经绞罗传统纹样,用图谱分析法分析最具代表性的菱形纹,使用原算法和开运算改进过的Criminisi算法,对图像进行剪裁,得出掩膜,计算优先权后进行纹样填充,完成了四经绞罗规律型图样的数字化修复。结果表明,经过开运算改进的Criminisi算法弥补了原算法的不足,修复后的图像和原算法修复的相比更加清晰平滑,验证了此算法修复四经绞罗纹样的可行性与可信性,为罗织物的传承和修复提供了较为可靠的方法。

仿牛仔成衣水洗效果针织成形编织工艺设计

针对传统牛仔水洗工艺污染性较强、舒适度不高等问题,提出仿牛仔成衣水洗效果针织成形编织工艺设计和应用的必要性。首先梳理牛仔水洗工艺,并按照其所呈现的外观效果进行分类。以该分类为依据,结合针织组织结构和纱线选择,对仿牛仔成衣水洗效果的针织成形编织工艺进行技术实践。最后阐述上述针织工艺在仿制经典牛仔服装款式以及在针织成形服装经典款式中应用的可行性。该研究是在环保可持续的大主题下,对牛仔风格服装设计与工艺的有益探索。