The nonlinear variation of wave is commonly seen in nearshore area,and the resulting seabed response and liquefaction are of high concern to coastal engineers.In this study,an analytical formula considering the nonlin...The nonlinear variation of wave is commonly seen in nearshore area,and the resulting seabed response and liquefaction are of high concern to coastal engineers.In this study,an analytical formula considering the nonlinear wave skewness and asymmetry is adopted to provide wave pressure on the seabed surface.The liquefaction depth attenuation coefficient and width growth coefficient are defined to quantitatively characterize the nonlinear effect of wave on seabed liquefaction.Based on the 2D full dynamic model of wave-induced seabed response,a detailed parametric study is carried out in order to evaluate the influence of the nonlinear variation of wave loadings on seabed liquefaction.Further,new empirical prediction formulas are proposed to fast predict the maximum liquefaction under nonlinear wave.Results indicate that(1)Due to the influence of wave nonlinearity,the vertical transmission of negative pore water pressure in the seabed is hindered,and therefore,the amplitude decreases significantly.(2)In general,with the increase of wave nonlinearity,the liquefaction depth of seabed decreases gradually.Especially under asymmetric and skewed wave loading,the attenuation of maximum seabed liquefaction depth is the most significant among all the nonlinear wave conditions.However,highly skewed wave can cause the liquefaction depth of seabed greater than that under linear wave.(3)The asymmetry of wave pressure leads to the increase of liquefaction width,whereas the influence of skewedness is not significant.(4)Compared with the nonlinear waveform,seabed liquefaction is more sensitive to the variation of nonlinear degree of wave loading.展开更多
The generation and propagation mechanism of strong nonlinear waves in the South China Sea is an essential research area.In this study,the third-generation wave model WAVEWATCH III is employed to simulate wave fields u...The generation and propagation mechanism of strong nonlinear waves in the South China Sea is an essential research area.In this study,the third-generation wave model WAVEWATCH III is employed to simulate wave fields under extreme sea states.The model,integrating the ST6 source term,is validated against observed data,demonstrating its credibility.The spatial distribution of the occurrence probability of strong nonlinear waves during typhoons is shown,and the waves in the straits and the northeastern part of the South China Sea show strong nonlinear characteristics.The high-order spectral model HOS-ocean is employed to simulate the random wave surface series beneath five different platform areas.The waves during the typhoon exhibit strong nonlinear characteristics,and freak waves exist.The space-varying probability model is established to describe the short-term probability distribution of nonlinear wave series.The exceedance probability distributions of the wave surface beneath different platform areas are compared and analyzed.The results show that with an increase in the platform area,the probability of a strong nonlinear wave beneath the platform increases.展开更多
Large amplitude (1+1)-dimensional nonlinear ion acoustic waves are theoretically studied in multicomponent plasma consisting of positively charged ions and negatively charged ions, ion beam, kappa-distributed electron...Large amplitude (1+1)-dimensional nonlinear ion acoustic waves are theoretically studied in multicomponent plasma consisting of positively charged ions and negatively charged ions, ion beam, kappa-distributed electrons, and dust grains,respectively. By using the Sagdeev potential method, the dynamical system and the Sagdeev potential function are obtained.The important influences of system parameters on the phase diagram of this system are investigated. It is found that the linear waves, the nonlinear waves and the solitary waves are coexistent in the multicomponent plasma system. Meanwhile,the variations of Sagdeev potential with parameter can also be obtained. Finally, it seems that the propagating characteristics of (1+1)-dimensional nonlinear ion acoustic solitary waves and ion acoustic nonlinear shock wave can be influenced by different parameters of this system.展开更多
A century ago, de Broglie discovered the wave associated to the motion of the electron. We present here the soliton solutions of a nonlinear relativistic wave equation. Two such solitons exist, corresponding to the tw...A century ago, de Broglie discovered the wave associated to the motion of the electron. We present here the soliton solutions of a nonlinear relativistic wave equation. Two such solitons exist, corresponding to the two possible states of a particle with spin j = 1/2. The mystery of wave-particle dualism is solved: the electron is both a particle, a point which is a singularity, and a wave extended throughout the whole space.展开更多
For the 22-year solar cycle oscillation there is no external time dependent source. A nonlinear oscillation, the solar cycle must be generated internally, and Babcock-Leighton models apply an artificial nonlinear sour...For the 22-year solar cycle oscillation there is no external time dependent source. A nonlinear oscillation, the solar cycle must be generated internally, and Babcock-Leighton models apply an artificial nonlinear source term that can simulate the observations—which leaves open the question of the actual source mechanism for the solar cycle. Addressing this question, we propose to take guidance from the wave mechanism that generates the 2-year Quasi-biennial Oscillation (QBO) in the Earth atmosphere. Upward propagating gravity waves, eastward and westward, deposit momentum to generate the observed zonal wind oscillation. On the Sun, helioseismology has provided a thorough understanding of the acoustic p-waves, which propagate down into the convective envelope guided by the increasing temperature and related propagation velocity. Near the tachocline with low turbulent viscosity, the waves propagating eastward and westward can produce an axisymmetric 22-year oscillation of the zonal flow velocities that can generate the magnetic solar dynamo. Following the Earth model, waves in opposite directions can generate in the Sun wind and magnetic field oscillations in opposite directions, the proposition of a potential solar cycle mechanism.展开更多
The present paper chooses a dusty plasma as an example to numerically and analytically study the differences between two different methods of obtaining nonlinear Schrödinger equation(NLSE).The first method is to ...The present paper chooses a dusty plasma as an example to numerically and analytically study the differences between two different methods of obtaining nonlinear Schrödinger equation(NLSE).The first method is to derive a Korteweg–de Vries(KdV)-type equation and then derive the NLSE from the KdV-type equation,while the second one is to directly derive the NLSE from the original equation.It is found that the envelope waves from the two methods have different dispersion relations,different group velocities.The results indicate that two envelope wave solutions from two different methods are completely different.The results also show that the application scope of the envelope wave obtained from the second method is wider than that of the first one,though both methods are valuable in the range of their corresponding application scopes.It is suggested that,for other systems,both methods to derive NLSE may be correct,but their nonlinear wave solutions are different and their application scopes are also different.展开更多
Major differences in beach erosion between two neighboring artificial beaches Xiangluwan Beach(XL beach)and Meiliwan Beach(ML beach)in Zhuhai,China,were studied after Super Typhoon Hato.In this study,a fully nonlinear...Major differences in beach erosion between two neighboring artificial beaches Xiangluwan Beach(XL beach)and Meiliwan Beach(ML beach)in Zhuhai,China,were studied after Super Typhoon Hato.In this study,a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model(FUNWAVE)-Total Variation Diminishing(TVD)was used to distinguish the main impact factors,their relative contributions,and the hydrodynamic mechanisms underlying the different beach responses.Results show that compared to the ML beach,the main reason for the relatively weak erosion on Xiangluwan(XL)beach was the smaller beach berm height(accounting for approximately 75.9%of the erosion response).Regarding the beach with a higher berm,the stronger wave-induced undertow flow,along with the higher sediment concentration,led to a higher offshore sediment transport flux,resulting in more severe erosion relative to the beach with a smaller berm height.The second most important reason explaining the weak erosion on XL beach was the absence of seawalls(accounting for approximately 17.9%of the erosion response).Wave reflection induced by the seawall could cause higher suspended sediment concentration,resulting in a toe scouring near the seawall.The offshore submerged breakwater protected XL beach slightly(accounting for approximately 6.1%of the erosion response).Due to the higher water level induced by storm surge,most of the wave energy could penetrate through the submerged breakwater.The effect of the larger berm width of XL beach was negligible.Compared to the beach with a larger berm width,the erosion/deposition regions in the beach with a narrower berm width showed shoreward migration,without significant changes in the erosion/deposition extent.Despite of this,the larger berm width could reduce the wave energy reaching the shoreline.This study of the storm stability of artificial beaches may be applied to beach restoration design.展开更多
Installing the Edinburgh Duck Wave Energy Converter(ED WEC)on a floating breakwater provides a potential solution to reduce costs and improve the reliability of the ED WEC.To investigate the interactions between the E...Installing the Edinburgh Duck Wave Energy Converter(ED WEC)on a floating breakwater provides a potential solution to reduce costs and improve the reliability of the ED WEC.To investigate the interactions between the ED WEC and the breakwater,a two-dimensional numerical model of a hybrid WEC-breakwater system is established based on Star-CCM+Computational Fluid Dynamics(CFD)software.The wave energy extraction performance,wave attenuation performance,and wave forces on the breakwater of the hybrid system are compared with those of the corresponding single device.The effects of the initial attack angle,the distance between the WEC and the breakwater,and the incident wave height on the pitch motion,energy conversion efficiency,transmission coefficient,and wave forces on the breakwater of the hybrid system are analyzed.The results indicate that combing the ED WEC with a breakwater can improve the energy extraction performance of the ED WEC and reduce the wave forces on the breakwater in shorter-period waves.The conversion efficiency of the hybrid system with the initial attack angle of 42°is the largest in shorter-period waves,but is reduced with the increase of initial attack angle in longer-period waves.The wave attenuation performance of the hybrid system is determined by the draft of the breakwater.The distance between the WEC and the breakwater has little effect on the hybrid system.Wave energy extraction of the ED WEC of the hybrid system decreases significantly with the increase of the incident wave height.展开更多
Edinburgh Duck wave energy converter(ED WEC)has excellent energy extraction performance and shows a great potential to integrate with other marine structures.This paper aims to investigate its wave energy extraction p...Edinburgh Duck wave energy converter(ED WEC)has excellent energy extraction performance and shows a great potential to integrate with other marine structures.This paper aims to investigate its wave energy extraction performance as a WEC and wave attenuation performance as a protection method for shoreline or marine structures.The wave and ED WEC interactions in regular waves are modeled using the Star-CCM+software and verified by comparisons with published experimental results.The motion response,energy conversion efficiency,and transmission coefficient of the ED WEC with different attack angles,rotation center,and incident wave heights are investigated.Results indicate that the ED WEC with an attack angle of 42°and a rotation center of 0.55 m below the mean water line can achieve both good wave energy extraction and wave attenuation performances.The wave energy extraction and wave attenuation performance of the ED WEC decrease significantly with the increase of wave nonlinearity characterized by the wave steepness.This paper can guide the practical application of the ED WEC at the early stage of design.展开更多
The wave equation of the electron, recently improved, allows physics to obtain all the quantum numbers and other results explaining the hydrogen spectrum. The Pauli exclusion principle then gives the description of el...The wave equation of the electron, recently improved, allows physics to obtain all the quantum numbers and other results explaining the hydrogen spectrum. The Pauli exclusion principle then gives the description of electron clouds used in chemistry. The relativistic wave equation is associated with a Lagrangian density, thus also with an energy-momentum tensorial density. The wave of an electron cloud adds these energy-momentum densities, while photons in light are precisely those differences between such energy-momentum densities.展开更多
High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article. First, the formal derivations to any high order of ...High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article. First, the formal derivations to any high order of mu(= h/lambda, depth to deep-water wave length ratio) and epsilon(= a/h, wave amplitude to depth ratio) for velocity potential, particle velocity vector, pressure and the Boussinesq-type equations for surface elevation eta and horizontal velocity vector (U) over right arrow at any given level in water are given. Then, the exact explicit expressions to the fourth order of mu are derived. Finally, the linear solutions of eta, (U) over right arrow, C (phase-celerity) and C-g (group velocity) for a constant water depth are obtained. Compared with the Airy theory, excellent results can be found even for a water depth as large as the wave legnth. The present high-order models are applicable to nonlinear regular and irregular waves in water of any varying depth (from shallow to deep) and bottom slope (from mild to steep).展开更多
A total of 137 internal solitary waves (ISWs) are captured during a field experiment conducted in the deep basin west of the Luzon Strait (LS) from March to August, 2010. Mooring observations reveal that a fully d...A total of 137 internal solitary waves (ISWs) are captured during a field experiment conducted in the deep basin west of the Luzon Strait (LS) from March to August, 2010. Mooring observations reveal that a fully developed ISW owns a maximum westward velocity of more than 1.8 m/s and an amplitude of about 200 m. The ISWs in the South China Sea (SCS) are most active in July, which may be due to the strong stratification in summer. Most of the ISW episodes are detected around and after the 1st or 15th lunar day, indicating that the ISW in the SCS is triggered by astronomic tides. Half part of the observed ISWs were detected around 19:00 local time, which can be explained by the fact that type-a ISWs emerged in the evening at roughly the same time each day. The propagation direction of the ISWs and the astronomic tides in the LS show that the area south of the Batan Island is probably the main source region of the type-a ISWs, while the area south of Itbayat Island and south of the Batan Island is likely the main source region of the type-b ISWs observed at the mooring. Moreover, for the resonance of semidiurnal internal tides emitting from the double ridges in the LS, the underwater ridge south of the Itbayat Island and south of the Batan Island is believed to favor the generation of the energetic ISWs.展开更多
A composite model, which is the combination of Boussinesq equations and Volume of Fluid (VOF) method, has been developed for 2-D time-domain computations of nonlinear waves in a large region. The whole computational r...A composite model, which is the combination of Boussinesq equations and Volume of Fluid (VOF) method, has been developed for 2-D time-domain computations of nonlinear waves in a large region. The whole computational region Omega is divided into two subregions. In the near-field around a structure, Omega(2), the flow is governed by 2-D Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equations with a turbulence closure model of k-epsilon equations and numerically solved by the improved VOF method; whereas in the subregion Omega(1) (Omega(1) = Omega - Omega(2)) the flow is governed by one-D Boussinesq equations and numerically solved with the predictor-corrector algorithm. The velocity and the wave surface elevation are matched on the common boundary of the two subregions. Numerical tests have been conducted for the case of wave propagation and interaction with a wave barrier. It is shown that the composite model can help perform efficient computation of nonlinear waves in a large region with the complicated flow fields near structures taken into account.展开更多
The initial-boundary value problem of the propagation of nonlinear longitudinal elastic waves in an initially strained rod is considered. The rod is assumed to interact with the surrouding elastic and viscous external...The initial-boundary value problem of the propagation of nonlinear longitudinal elastic waves in an initially strained rod is considered. The rod is assumed to interact with the surrouding elastic and viscous external medium. The long time behavior of solutions are derived and global attractors in E-1 space is obtained.展开更多
This paper uses the weakly nonlinear method and perturbation method to deal with the quasi-geostrophic vorticity equation,and the modified Korteweg-de Vries(mKdV) equations describing the evolution of the amplitude ...This paper uses the weakly nonlinear method and perturbation method to deal with the quasi-geostrophic vorticity equation,and the modified Korteweg-de Vries(mKdV) equations describing the evolution of the amplitude of solitary Rossby waves as the change of Rossby parameter β(у) with latitude у is obtained.展开更多
In this paper, the nonlinear internal inerntial gravity wave equation is derived by the analysis method of phase plane and is solved by integration method. The results showed that this nonlinear equation not only has ...In this paper, the nonlinear internal inerntial gravity wave equation is derived by the analysis method of phase plane and is solved by integration method. The results showed that this nonlinear equation not only has ordinary solitary wave solution but also has another extra-ordinary solutions, and the form of solution is related to stratification stability, wave velocity and direction of wave motion.展开更多
A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed...A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model' s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone.展开更多
In literature,nonlinear traveling waves in elastic circular rods have only been studied based on single partial differential equation(pde)models,and here we consider such a problem by using a more accurate coupled-pde...In literature,nonlinear traveling waves in elastic circular rods have only been studied based on single partial differential equation(pde)models,and here we consider such a problem by using a more accurate coupled-pde model.We derive the Hamiltonian from the model equations for the long finite-amplitude wave approximation,analyze how the number of singular points of the system changes with the parameters,and study the features of these singular points qualitatively.Various physically acceptable nonlinear traveling waves are also discussed,and corresponding examples are given.In particular,we find that certain waves,which cannot be counted by the single-equation model,can arise.展开更多
By introducing a source term into the Laplace equation, a two-dimensional fully nonlinear time-domain numerical wave flume (NWF) is developed to investigate the resonance induced by the interaction between waves and...By introducing a source term into the Laplace equation, a two-dimensional fully nonlinear time-domain numerical wave flume (NWF) is developed to investigate the resonance induced by the interaction between waves and multiple objects with narrow gaps. In the numerical model, the fully nonlinear kinematic and dynamic boundary conditions are satisfied on the instantaneous free surface and the constant artificial damping is employed in the gaps to approximate the viscous dissipation due to vortex motion and flow separation. The computational domain is discretized using a higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM). The proposed model is firstly validated against the published experimental data and numerical results of the wave height in the narrow gap between two boxes, the wave heights in the two gaps of three boxes, and wave loads on the boxes. Then, the extensive numerical experiments are performed to study the influences of the number of the boxes and the gap spacing on the resonant frequency, reflected and transmitted wave heights and wave loads on the boxes.展开更多
For higher accuracy in simulating the transformation of three dimensional waves, in consideration of the advantages of constant panels and linear elements, a combined boundary elements is applied in this research. The...For higher accuracy in simulating the transformation of three dimensional waves, in consideration of the advantages of constant panels and linear elements, a combined boundary elements is applied in this research. The method can be used to remove the transverse vibration due to the accumulation of computational errors. A combined boundary condition of sponge layer and Sommerfeld radiation condition is used to remove the reflected waves from the computing domain. By following the water particle on the water surface, the third order Stokes wave transform is simulated by the numerical wave flume technique. The computed results are in good agreement with theoretical ones.展开更多
基金financially supported by the National Key Research and Development Program of China(Grant Nos.2021YFB2600700 and 2022YFC3102302)the Central Public-Interest Scientific Institution Basal Research Fund(Grant No.Y221007)+2 种基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.52271274)the Key Laboratory of Ministry of Education for Coastal Disaster and Protection,Hohai University(Grant No.202205)the Key Project of NSFC-Shandong Joint Research Funding POW3C(Grant No.U1906230).
文摘The nonlinear variation of wave is commonly seen in nearshore area,and the resulting seabed response and liquefaction are of high concern to coastal engineers.In this study,an analytical formula considering the nonlinear wave skewness and asymmetry is adopted to provide wave pressure on the seabed surface.The liquefaction depth attenuation coefficient and width growth coefficient are defined to quantitatively characterize the nonlinear effect of wave on seabed liquefaction.Based on the 2D full dynamic model of wave-induced seabed response,a detailed parametric study is carried out in order to evaluate the influence of the nonlinear variation of wave loadings on seabed liquefaction.Further,new empirical prediction formulas are proposed to fast predict the maximum liquefaction under nonlinear wave.Results indicate that(1)Due to the influence of wave nonlinearity,the vertical transmission of negative pore water pressure in the seabed is hindered,and therefore,the amplitude decreases significantly.(2)In general,with the increase of wave nonlinearity,the liquefaction depth of seabed decreases gradually.Especially under asymmetric and skewed wave loading,the attenuation of maximum seabed liquefaction depth is the most significant among all the nonlinear wave conditions.However,highly skewed wave can cause the liquefaction depth of seabed greater than that under linear wave.(3)The asymmetry of wave pressure leads to the increase of liquefaction width,whereas the influence of skewedness is not significant.(4)Compared with the nonlinear waveform,seabed liquefaction is more sensitive to the variation of nonlinear degree of wave loading.
基金financially supported by the National Key R&D Program of China(No.2022YFC3104205)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.42377457).
文摘The generation and propagation mechanism of strong nonlinear waves in the South China Sea is an essential research area.In this study,the third-generation wave model WAVEWATCH III is employed to simulate wave fields under extreme sea states.The model,integrating the ST6 source term,is validated against observed data,demonstrating its credibility.The spatial distribution of the occurrence probability of strong nonlinear waves during typhoons is shown,and the waves in the straits and the northeastern part of the South China Sea show strong nonlinear characteristics.The high-order spectral model HOS-ocean is employed to simulate the random wave surface series beneath five different platform areas.The waves during the typhoon exhibit strong nonlinear characteristics,and freak waves exist.The space-varying probability model is established to describe the short-term probability distribution of nonlinear wave series.The exceedance probability distributions of the wave surface beneath different platform areas are compared and analyzed.The results show that with an increase in the platform area,the probability of a strong nonlinear wave beneath the platform increases.
文摘Large amplitude (1+1)-dimensional nonlinear ion acoustic waves are theoretically studied in multicomponent plasma consisting of positively charged ions and negatively charged ions, ion beam, kappa-distributed electrons, and dust grains,respectively. By using the Sagdeev potential method, the dynamical system and the Sagdeev potential function are obtained.The important influences of system parameters on the phase diagram of this system are investigated. It is found that the linear waves, the nonlinear waves and the solitary waves are coexistent in the multicomponent plasma system. Meanwhile,the variations of Sagdeev potential with parameter can also be obtained. Finally, it seems that the propagating characteristics of (1+1)-dimensional nonlinear ion acoustic solitary waves and ion acoustic nonlinear shock wave can be influenced by different parameters of this system.
文摘A century ago, de Broglie discovered the wave associated to the motion of the electron. We present here the soliton solutions of a nonlinear relativistic wave equation. Two such solitons exist, corresponding to the two possible states of a particle with spin j = 1/2. The mystery of wave-particle dualism is solved: the electron is both a particle, a point which is a singularity, and a wave extended throughout the whole space.
文摘For the 22-year solar cycle oscillation there is no external time dependent source. A nonlinear oscillation, the solar cycle must be generated internally, and Babcock-Leighton models apply an artificial nonlinear source term that can simulate the observations—which leaves open the question of the actual source mechanism for the solar cycle. Addressing this question, we propose to take guidance from the wave mechanism that generates the 2-year Quasi-biennial Oscillation (QBO) in the Earth atmosphere. Upward propagating gravity waves, eastward and westward, deposit momentum to generate the observed zonal wind oscillation. On the Sun, helioseismology has provided a thorough understanding of the acoustic p-waves, which propagate down into the convective envelope guided by the increasing temperature and related propagation velocity. Near the tachocline with low turbulent viscosity, the waves propagating eastward and westward can produce an axisymmetric 22-year oscillation of the zonal flow velocities that can generate the magnetic solar dynamo. Following the Earth model, waves in opposite directions can generate in the Sun wind and magnetic field oscillations in opposite directions, the proposition of a potential solar cycle mechanism.
基金Project supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant Nos.11965019 and 42004131)the Foundation of Gansu Educational Committee(Grant No.2022QB-178).
文摘The present paper chooses a dusty plasma as an example to numerically and analytically study the differences between two different methods of obtaining nonlinear Schrödinger equation(NLSE).The first method is to derive a Korteweg–de Vries(KdV)-type equation and then derive the NLSE from the KdV-type equation,while the second one is to directly derive the NLSE from the original equation.It is found that the envelope waves from the two methods have different dispersion relations,different group velocities.The results indicate that two envelope wave solutions from two different methods are completely different.The results also show that the application scope of the envelope wave obtained from the second method is wider than that of the first one,though both methods are valuable in the range of their corresponding application scopes.It is suggested that,for other systems,both methods to derive NLSE may be correct,but their nonlinear wave solutions are different and their application scopes are also different.
基金Supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.42006176,42330406,U1706220,41901006)the Basic Research Project of the Science and Technology Innovation Development Program of in Yantai(No.2022JCYJ028)。
文摘Major differences in beach erosion between two neighboring artificial beaches Xiangluwan Beach(XL beach)and Meiliwan Beach(ML beach)in Zhuhai,China,were studied after Super Typhoon Hato.In this study,a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model(FUNWAVE)-Total Variation Diminishing(TVD)was used to distinguish the main impact factors,their relative contributions,and the hydrodynamic mechanisms underlying the different beach responses.Results show that compared to the ML beach,the main reason for the relatively weak erosion on Xiangluwan(XL)beach was the smaller beach berm height(accounting for approximately 75.9%of the erosion response).Regarding the beach with a higher berm,the stronger wave-induced undertow flow,along with the higher sediment concentration,led to a higher offshore sediment transport flux,resulting in more severe erosion relative to the beach with a smaller berm height.The second most important reason explaining the weak erosion on XL beach was the absence of seawalls(accounting for approximately 17.9%of the erosion response).Wave reflection induced by the seawall could cause higher suspended sediment concentration,resulting in a toe scouring near the seawall.The offshore submerged breakwater protected XL beach slightly(accounting for approximately 6.1%of the erosion response).Due to the higher water level induced by storm surge,most of the wave energy could penetrate through the submerged breakwater.The effect of the larger berm width of XL beach was negligible.Compared to the beach with a larger berm width,the erosion/deposition regions in the beach with a narrower berm width showed shoreward migration,without significant changes in the erosion/deposition extent.Despite of this,the larger berm width could reduce the wave energy reaching the shoreline.This study of the storm stability of artificial beaches may be applied to beach restoration design.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 52071096)the Student Research and Innovation Fund of the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities (Grant No. 3072020GIP0105)。
文摘Installing the Edinburgh Duck Wave Energy Converter(ED WEC)on a floating breakwater provides a potential solution to reduce costs and improve the reliability of the ED WEC.To investigate the interactions between the ED WEC and the breakwater,a two-dimensional numerical model of a hybrid WEC-breakwater system is established based on Star-CCM+Computational Fluid Dynamics(CFD)software.The wave energy extraction performance,wave attenuation performance,and wave forces on the breakwater of the hybrid system are compared with those of the corresponding single device.The effects of the initial attack angle,the distance between the WEC and the breakwater,and the incident wave height on the pitch motion,energy conversion efficiency,transmission coefficient,and wave forces on the breakwater of the hybrid system are analyzed.The results indicate that combing the ED WEC with a breakwater can improve the energy extraction performance of the ED WEC and reduce the wave forces on the breakwater in shorter-period waves.The conversion efficiency of the hybrid system with the initial attack angle of 42°is the largest in shorter-period waves,but is reduced with the increase of initial attack angle in longer-period waves.The wave attenuation performance of the hybrid system is determined by the draft of the breakwater.The distance between the WEC and the breakwater has little effect on the hybrid system.Wave energy extraction of the ED WEC of the hybrid system decreases significantly with the increase of the incident wave height.
基金financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.52071096)the Student Research and Innovation Fund of the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities(Grant No.3072020GIP0105).
文摘Edinburgh Duck wave energy converter(ED WEC)has excellent energy extraction performance and shows a great potential to integrate with other marine structures.This paper aims to investigate its wave energy extraction performance as a WEC and wave attenuation performance as a protection method for shoreline or marine structures.The wave and ED WEC interactions in regular waves are modeled using the Star-CCM+software and verified by comparisons with published experimental results.The motion response,energy conversion efficiency,and transmission coefficient of the ED WEC with different attack angles,rotation center,and incident wave heights are investigated.Results indicate that the ED WEC with an attack angle of 42°and a rotation center of 0.55 m below the mean water line can achieve both good wave energy extraction and wave attenuation performances.The wave energy extraction and wave attenuation performance of the ED WEC decrease significantly with the increase of wave nonlinearity characterized by the wave steepness.This paper can guide the practical application of the ED WEC at the early stage of design.
文摘The wave equation of the electron, recently improved, allows physics to obtain all the quantum numbers and other results explaining the hydrogen spectrum. The Pauli exclusion principle then gives the description of electron clouds used in chemistry. The relativistic wave equation is associated with a Lagrangian density, thus also with an energy-momentum tensorial density. The wave of an electron cloud adds these energy-momentum densities, while photons in light are precisely those differences between such energy-momentum densities.
文摘High-order models with a dissipative term for nonlinear and dispersive wave in water of varying depth with an arbitrary sloping bottom are presented in this article. First, the formal derivations to any high order of mu(= h/lambda, depth to deep-water wave length ratio) and epsilon(= a/h, wave amplitude to depth ratio) for velocity potential, particle velocity vector, pressure and the Boussinesq-type equations for surface elevation eta and horizontal velocity vector (U) over right arrow at any given level in water are given. Then, the exact explicit expressions to the fourth order of mu are derived. Finally, the linear solutions of eta, (U) over right arrow, C (phase-celerity) and C-g (group velocity) for a constant water depth are obtained. Compared with the Airy theory, excellent results can be found even for a water depth as large as the wave legnth. The present high-order models are applicable to nonlinear regular and irregular waves in water of any varying depth (from shallow to deep) and bottom slope (from mild to steep).
基金The Program for New Century Excellent Talents in Universities of China under contract No.NCET-10-0764the National High Tech-nology Research and Development(863)Program of China under contract No.2013AA09A502the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 41176010,91028008,40890153,41176008 and 40776005
文摘A total of 137 internal solitary waves (ISWs) are captured during a field experiment conducted in the deep basin west of the Luzon Strait (LS) from March to August, 2010. Mooring observations reveal that a fully developed ISW owns a maximum westward velocity of more than 1.8 m/s and an amplitude of about 200 m. The ISWs in the South China Sea (SCS) are most active in July, which may be due to the strong stratification in summer. Most of the ISW episodes are detected around and after the 1st or 15th lunar day, indicating that the ISW in the SCS is triggered by astronomic tides. Half part of the observed ISWs were detected around 19:00 local time, which can be explained by the fact that type-a ISWs emerged in the evening at roughly the same time each day. The propagation direction of the ISWs and the astronomic tides in the LS show that the area south of the Batan Island is probably the main source region of the type-a ISWs, while the area south of Itbayat Island and south of the Batan Island is likely the main source region of the type-b ISWs observed at the mooring. Moreover, for the resonance of semidiurnal internal tides emitting from the double ridges in the LS, the underwater ridge south of the Itbayat Island and south of the Batan Island is believed to favor the generation of the energetic ISWs.
基金Trans-Century Training program Fund for the Talent,Ministry of Education of China
文摘A composite model, which is the combination of Boussinesq equations and Volume of Fluid (VOF) method, has been developed for 2-D time-domain computations of nonlinear waves in a large region. The whole computational region Omega is divided into two subregions. In the near-field around a structure, Omega(2), the flow is governed by 2-D Reynolds Averaged Navier-Stokes equations with a turbulence closure model of k-epsilon equations and numerically solved by the improved VOF method; whereas in the subregion Omega(1) (Omega(1) = Omega - Omega(2)) the flow is governed by one-D Boussinesq equations and numerically solved with the predictor-corrector algorithm. The velocity and the wave surface elevation are matched on the common boundary of the two subregions. Numerical tests have been conducted for the case of wave propagation and interaction with a wave barrier. It is shown that the composite model can help perform efficient computation of nonlinear waves in a large region with the complicated flow fields near structures taken into account.
基金National Natural Science Foundation of China!(No:19861004)
文摘The initial-boundary value problem of the propagation of nonlinear longitudinal elastic waves in an initially strained rod is considered. The rod is assumed to interact with the surrouding elastic and viscous external medium. The long time behavior of solutions are derived and global attractors in E-1 space is obtained.
基金Project supported by the Educational Department of Inner Mongolia (NJZY:08005)Open Fund of the Key Laboratory of Ocean Circulation and Waves,Chinese Academy of Sciences (Grant No KLOCAW0805)
文摘This paper uses the weakly nonlinear method and perturbation method to deal with the quasi-geostrophic vorticity equation,and the modified Korteweg-de Vries(mKdV) equations describing the evolution of the amplitude of solitary Rossby waves as the change of Rossby parameter β(у) with latitude у is obtained.
文摘In this paper, the nonlinear internal inerntial gravity wave equation is derived by the analysis method of phase plane and is solved by integration method. The results showed that this nonlinear equation not only has ordinary solitary wave solution but also has another extra-ordinary solutions, and the form of solution is related to stratification stability, wave velocity and direction of wave motion.
基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos .50479053 and10672034)the Programfor Changjiang Scholars and Innovative Research Teamin Universitythe foundation for doctoral degree education of the Education Ministry of China
文摘A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model' s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone.
基金The project supported by the Research Grants Council of the HKSAR,China (CityU 1107/99P) and the National Natural Science Foundation of China (10372054 and 10171061)
文摘In literature,nonlinear traveling waves in elastic circular rods have only been studied based on single partial differential equation(pde)models,and here we consider such a problem by using a more accurate coupled-pde model.We derive the Hamiltonian from the model equations for the long finite-amplitude wave approximation,analyze how the number of singular points of the system changes with the parameters,and study the features of these singular points qualitatively.Various physically acceptable nonlinear traveling waves are also discussed,and corresponding examples are given.In particular,we find that certain waves,which cannot be counted by the single-equation model,can arise.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract Nos 51179028,51222902 and 51221961the New Century Excellent Talents in University of China under contract No.NCET-13-0076
文摘By introducing a source term into the Laplace equation, a two-dimensional fully nonlinear time-domain numerical wave flume (NWF) is developed to investigate the resonance induced by the interaction between waves and multiple objects with narrow gaps. In the numerical model, the fully nonlinear kinematic and dynamic boundary conditions are satisfied on the instantaneous free surface and the constant artificial damping is employed in the gaps to approximate the viscous dissipation due to vortex motion and flow separation. The computational domain is discretized using a higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM). The proposed model is firstly validated against the published experimental data and numerical results of the wave height in the narrow gap between two boxes, the wave heights in the two gaps of three boxes, and wave loads on the boxes. Then, the extensive numerical experiments are performed to study the influences of the number of the boxes and the gap spacing on the resonant frequency, reflected and transmitted wave heights and wave loads on the boxes.
基金National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.49876026)
文摘For higher accuracy in simulating the transformation of three dimensional waves, in consideration of the advantages of constant panels and linear elements, a combined boundary elements is applied in this research. The method can be used to remove the transverse vibration due to the accumulation of computational errors. A combined boundary condition of sponge layer and Sommerfeld radiation condition is used to remove the reflected waves from the computing domain. By following the water particle on the water surface, the third order Stokes wave transform is simulated by the numerical wave flume technique. The computed results are in good agreement with theoretical ones.