In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mai...In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mainly in the high wave range. The effect of wave steepness is in low, medium and high wave ranges. In the high wave range the effect of spectral width is comparable to that of wave steepness. Differences in spectral width in the observations may give rise to discrepancies in the result when wave steepness is the only parameter in the distribution.展开更多
Based on the universal expression of wind wave spectra, four commonly used definitions of the spectrum width are re-examined. The results show that the non-dimensional spectrum width can measure the width of non-dimen...Based on the universal expression of wind wave spectra, four commonly used definitions of the spectrum width are re-examined. The results show that the non-dimensional spectrum width can measure the width of non-dimensional spectra but it does not reflect the developing state of the spectra. The dimensional spectrum width expresses the degree of concentration of wave energy of the spectrum in the process of wind wave growth. Tests show that the spectrum width presented by Wen et al. can objectively measure the degree of concentration of wave energy of the spectrum, reflect the state of wind wave growth, and provides a better result for practical application, The rules for definition of the spectrum width are discussed.展开更多
In this study, the numerical solution for the Modified Equal Width Wave (MEW) equation is presented using Fourier spectral method that use to discretize the space variable and Leap-frog method scheme for time dependen...In this study, the numerical solution for the Modified Equal Width Wave (MEW) equation is presented using Fourier spectral method that use to discretize the space variable and Leap-frog method scheme for time dependence. Test problems including the single soliton wave motion, interaction of two solitary waves and interaction of three solitary waves will use to validate the proposed method. The three invariants of the motion are evaluated to determine the conservation properties of the generated scheme. Finally, a Maxwellian initial condition pulse is then studied. The L<sub>2</sub> and L<sub>∞</sub> error norms are computed to study the accuracy and the simplicity of the presented method.展开更多
This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite ...This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up.展开更多
The probability distribution of wave heights under the assumption of narrowband linear wave theory follows the Rayleigh distribution and the statistical relationships between some characteristic wave heights,derived f...The probability distribution of wave heights under the assumption of narrowband linear wave theory follows the Rayleigh distribution and the statistical relationships between some characteristic wave heights,derived from this distribution,are widely used for the treatment of realistic wind waves. However,the bandwidth of wave frequency influences the probability distribution of wave heights. In this paper,a wave-spectrum-width parameter B was introduced into the JONSWAP spectrum. This facilitated the construction of a wind-wave spectrum and the reconstruction of wind-wave time series for various growth stages,based on which the probability density distributions of the wind-wave heights were studied statistically. The distribution curves deviated slightly from the theoretical Rayleigh distribution with increasing B. The probability that a wave height exceeded a certain value was clearly smaller than the theoretical value for B ≥0.3,and the difference between them increased with the threshold value. The relation between the H s /σ ratio and B was investigated statistically,which revealed that the H s / σ ratio deviated from 4.005 and declined with B. When B reached 0.698 1,the H s / σ ratio was 3.825,which is about 95.5% of its original value. This indicates an overestimation in the prediction of H s from H s =4.005 σ,and provides a potential method for improving the accuracy of the H s remote sensing retrieval algorithm,critical for extremely large waves under severe sea states.展开更多
In this paper,we analyse the equal width（EW） wave equation by using the mesh-free reproducing kernel particle Ritz（kp-Ritz） method.The mesh-free kernel particle estimate is employed to approximate the displacement...In this paper,we analyse the equal width（EW） wave equation by using the mesh-free reproducing kernel particle Ritz（kp-Ritz） method.The mesh-free kernel particle estimate is employed to approximate the displacement field.A system of discrete equations is obtained through the application of the Ritz minimization procedure to the energy expressions.The effectiveness of the kp-Ritz method for the EW wave equation is investigated by numerical examples in this paper.展开更多
文摘In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mainly in the high wave range. The effect of wave steepness is in low, medium and high wave ranges. In the high wave range the effect of spectral width is comparable to that of wave steepness. Differences in spectral width in the observations may give rise to discrepancies in the result when wave steepness is the only parameter in the distribution.
基金This work was financially supported by the National Science Foundation of China(Grant No.49776282)
文摘Based on the universal expression of wind wave spectra, four commonly used definitions of the spectrum width are re-examined. The results show that the non-dimensional spectrum width can measure the width of non-dimensional spectra but it does not reflect the developing state of the spectra. The dimensional spectrum width expresses the degree of concentration of wave energy of the spectrum in the process of wind wave growth. Tests show that the spectrum width presented by Wen et al. can objectively measure the degree of concentration of wave energy of the spectrum, reflect the state of wind wave growth, and provides a better result for practical application, The rules for definition of the spectrum width are discussed.
文摘In this study, the numerical solution for the Modified Equal Width Wave (MEW) equation is presented using Fourier spectral method that use to discretize the space variable and Leap-frog method scheme for time dependence. Test problems including the single soliton wave motion, interaction of two solitary waves and interaction of three solitary waves will use to validate the proposed method. The three invariants of the motion are evaluated to determine the conservation properties of the generated scheme. Finally, a Maxwellian initial condition pulse is then studied. The L<sub>2</sub> and L<sub>∞</sub> error norms are computed to study the accuracy and the simplicity of the presented method.
文摘This paper discusses the effect of berm width and elevation of composite slope on irregular wave run-up. Based on the data obtained from model tests, the formula and distribution of irregular wave run-up on composite slope are derived. The changing of wind speed, width and elevation of the berm are considered comprehensively. The wave run-up with various exceedance probability can be es-timated utilizing the distribution curves of irregular wave run-up.
基金Supported by the National High Technology Research and Development Program of China(863 Program)(No.2013AA09A505)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.U1133001,41376027,41406017)the NSFC-Shandong Joint Fund for Marine Science Research Centers(No.U1406401)
文摘The probability distribution of wave heights under the assumption of narrowband linear wave theory follows the Rayleigh distribution and the statistical relationships between some characteristic wave heights,derived from this distribution,are widely used for the treatment of realistic wind waves. However,the bandwidth of wave frequency influences the probability distribution of wave heights. In this paper,a wave-spectrum-width parameter B was introduced into the JONSWAP spectrum. This facilitated the construction of a wind-wave spectrum and the reconstruction of wind-wave time series for various growth stages,based on which the probability density distributions of the wind-wave heights were studied statistically. The distribution curves deviated slightly from the theoretical Rayleigh distribution with increasing B. The probability that a wave height exceeded a certain value was clearly smaller than the theoretical value for B ≥0.3,and the difference between them increased with the threshold value. The relation between the H s /σ ratio and B was investigated statistically,which revealed that the H s / σ ratio deviated from 4.005 and declined with B. When B reached 0.698 1,the H s / σ ratio was 3.825,which is about 95.5% of its original value. This indicates an overestimation in the prediction of H s from H s =4.005 σ,and provides a potential method for improving the accuracy of the H s remote sensing retrieval algorithm,critical for extremely large waves under severe sea states.
基金Project supported by the Natural Science Foundation of Zhejiang Province,China (Grant No. Y6110007)
文摘In this paper,we analyse the equal width（EW） wave equation by using the mesh-free reproducing kernel particle Ritz（kp-Ritz） method.The mesh-free kernel particle estimate is employed to approximate the displacement field.A system of discrete equations is obtained through the application of the Ritz minimization procedure to the energy expressions.The effectiveness of the kp-Ritz method for the EW wave equation is investigated by numerical examples in this paper.
