NUMERICAL SIMULATION OF WAVE-INDUCED CURRENT WITH VERTICALLY VARIED RADIATION STRESS

This article analyzes the vertical structure of the onshore current including the wave-induced current by an equation developed for the radiation stress against water depth.A coupled model COHERENS-SED is adopted to calculate the wave,tidal current,wave-induced current and sediment simultaneously.By applying the new model to Yangpu Bay,its reliability is verified.Then an ideal coastal domain is defined to simulate the nearshore current and wave setup with normal incident waves.The numerical and experimental results for the vertical structure show two undertows,also a visible setup in the surf zone.It demonstrates the importance of the radiation stress in wave-induced currents and mean water levels（set-up/down）.

Revisiting study on Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation over various reef profiles

To better understand the complex process of wave transformation and associated hydrodynamics over various fringing reef profiles, numerical experiments were conducted with a one-dimensional （1D） Boussinesq wave model. The model is based on higher-order Boussinesq equations and a higher-accuracy finite difference method. The dominant energy dissipation in the surf zone, wave breaking, and bottom friction were considered by use of the eddy viscosity concept and quadratic bottom friction law, respectively. Numerical simulation was conducted for a wide range of wave conditions and reef profiles. Good overall agreement between the computed results and the measurements shows that this model is capable of describing wave processes in the fringing reef environment. Numerical experiments were also conducted to track the source of underestimation of setup for highly nonlinear waves. Linear properties （including dispersion and shoaling） are found to contribute little to the underestimation; the low accuracy in nonlinearity and the ad hoc method for treating wave breaking may be the reason for the problem.

A Numerical Study on the Responses of Wave-Driven Circulation to Varying Incident Wave Forcing and Reef Morphology in A Reef-Lagoon-Channel System

Wave-driven circulation in a reef-lagoon-channel system has significant ecological,geomorphological,and environmental implications.However,there is still research gap in fully understanding the responses of wave-driven circulation in the system to varying incident wave forcing and reef morphology.To better interpret the wave-current process inside an idealized reef-lagoon-channel configuration,a numerical model based on the horizontally two-dimensional(2DH)fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations is presented in this study.The adopted model is firstly validated by a published laboratory dataset for wave height,wave setup and mean current in the system.Subsequently,the impacts of wave forcing(incident wave height,incident wave period,reef-flat wave level)and reef morphological(fore-reef slope,cross-shore reef-flat width,channel width,reef roughness)factors that are not fully considered in the previous laboratory studies are reported through the numerical simulations in this study.Finally,the model is applied to analyze the wave pump efficiency parameter in the system,and an empirical equation to predict this parameter is also proposed.

Non-hydrostatic modelling of regular wave transformation and current circulation in an idealized reef-lagoon-channel system

The wave-induced setup and circulation in a two dimensional horizontal(2DH)reef-lagoon-channel system is investigated by a non-hydrostatic model.The simulated results agree well with observations from the laboratory experiments,revealing that the model is valid in simulating wave transformation and currents over reefs.The effects of incident wave height,period,and reef flat water depth on the mean sea level and wave-driven currents are examined.Results show that the distributions of mean sea level and current velocities on the reef flat adjacent to the channel vary significantly from those in the area close to the side walls.From the wave averaged current field,an obvious alongshore flux flowing from the reef flat to the channel is captured.The flux from the reef flat composes the second source of the offshore rip current,while the first source is from the lagoon.A detailed momentum balance analysis shows that the alongshore current is mainly induced by the pressure gradient between the reef flat and the channel.In the lagoon,the momentum balances are between the pressure and radiation stress gradient,which drives flow towards the channel.Along the channel,the offshore current is mainly driven by the pressure gradient.