Synthetic aperture radar(SAR)and wave spectrometers,crucial in microwave remote sensing,play an essential role in monitoring sea surface wind and wave conditions.However,they face inherent limitations in observing sea...Synthetic aperture radar(SAR)and wave spectrometers,crucial in microwave remote sensing,play an essential role in monitoring sea surface wind and wave conditions.However,they face inherent limitations in observing sea surface phenomena.SAR systems,for instance,are hindered by an azimuth cut-off phenomenon in sea surface wind field observation.Wave spectrometers,while unaffected by the azimuth cutoff phenomenon,struggle with low azimuth resolution,impacting the capture of detailed wave and wind field data.This study utilizes SAR and surface wave investigation and monitoring(SWIM)data to initially extract key feature parameters,which are then prioritized using the extreme gradient boosting(XGBoost)algorithm.The research further addresses feature collinearity through a combined analysis of feature importance and correlation,leading to the development of an inversion model for wave and wind parameters based on XGBoost.A comparative analysis of this model with ERA5 reanalysis and buoy data for of significant wave height,mean wave period,wind direction,and wind speed reveals root mean square errors of 0.212 m,0.525 s,27.446°,and 1.092 m/s,compared to 0.314 m,0.888 s,27.698°,and 1.315 m/s from buoy data,respectively.These results demonstrate the model’s effective retrieval of wave and wind parameters.Finally,the model,incorporating altimeter and scatterometer data,is evaluated against SAR/SWIM single and dual payload inversion methods across different wind speeds.This comparison highlights the model’s superior inversion accuracy over other methods.展开更多
The global wave model WAVEWATCH III®works well in open water.To simulate the propagation and attenuation of waves through ice-covered water,existing simulations have considered the influence of sea ice by adding ...The global wave model WAVEWATCH III®works well in open water.To simulate the propagation and attenuation of waves through ice-covered water,existing simulations have considered the influence of sea ice by adding the sea ice concentration in the wind wave module;however,they simply suppose that the wind cannot penetrate the ice layer and ignore the possibility of wind forcing waves below the ice cover.To improve the simulation performance of wind wave modules in the marginal ice zone(MIZ),this study proposes a parameterization scheme by directly including the sea ice thickness.Instead of scaling the wind input with the fraction of open water,this new scheme allows partial wind input in ice-covered areas based on the ice thickness.Compared with observations in the Barents Sea in 2016,the new scheme appears to improve the modeled waves in the high-frequency band.Sensitivity experiments with and without wind wave modules show that wind waves can play an important role in areas with low sea ice concentration in the MIZ.展开更多
An offshore wind-wave hybrid platform could consistently and cost-effectively supply renewable power.A multi-objective optimization process is proposed for a hybrid platform with hydrodynamic coupling interaction.The ...An offshore wind-wave hybrid platform could consistently and cost-effectively supply renewable power.A multi-objective optimization process is proposed for a hybrid platform with hydrodynamic coupling interaction.The effects of various critical structural parameters,spacing values,and wave directions are studied for higher energy capture and offshore platform stability.Approximation models of various key parameters are established to optimize the hybrid system,with the objects of the power capture width ratio and the stability index of the platform.The optimization results are affected by the hydrodynamic coupling interaction,with a tendency to affect the higher frequency of hydrodynamic performance in the hybrid system.After the optimization,an appropriate spacing value effectively improves energy capture performance.The optimal array distance D_(Ff),D_(Fp),the optimal structural parameters R_(p),r_(p),d_(f),r_(f),and B_(PTO)are 11.57,12.75,5.1,3.3,1.5,6.5 m,and 80436 Nm s^(-1),respectively.The peak value of the wave energy converter capture width ratio in the hybrid system increases by almost 50%,with a 54%decrease in the stability index.展开更多
The ocean waves are generally mixed with wind wave and swell. In order to separate these two kinds of ocean waves, many wave spectral partitioning techniques have been proposed. In this study, a two-dimensional(2D) ...The ocean waves are generally mixed with wind wave and swell. In order to separate these two kinds of ocean waves, many wave spectral partitioning techniques have been proposed. In this study, a two-dimensional(2D) and three one-dimensional (1D) wave spectral partitioning techniques (denoted as PM, WH, and JP) are examined based on the model simulations and in-situ observations. It is shown that the 2D technique could provide the most reliable results as a whole. Compared with 2D technique, PM and JP techniques obviously overestimate the wind-wave components, and the same situation happens for WH technique at low wind speed. With the adjustment of the partitioning frequency ratio, the 1D PM technique is modified, in which the result agree well with that of the 2D scheme.展开更多
The influence of long regular waves on wind waves are examined in the laboratory tank. The wave spectra of wind waves are compared when there is and there is not long waves. Besides the widely addressed suppression of...The influence of long regular waves on wind waves are examined in the laboratory tank. The wave spectra of wind waves are compared when there is and there is not long waves. Besides the widely addressed suppression of wind waves by long waves, it is also found that, the presence of long regular wave induces low frequency shift of wind waves when long wave slope is small and also its frequencyf is quite apart from wind wave crest frequencies fp. The effect of long wave modulation on wind wave spectra is estimated according to Longuet-Higgins & Stewart (1960) (abbreviated as LS60 afterwards), which is found to be prominent at the large ratio of fp/f l. It's also found that, when the limitation of wave breaking on wind wave steepness is taken account of, the LS60 theory can explain the low frequency shift satisfactorily. The work suggests that, at small long wave slope and large ratio of fp/fl, the LS60 modulation mechanism together with the enhanced wave breaking may dominate the influence of long waves on wind waves.展开更多
Utilizing the 45 a European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) reanalysis wave da- ta (ERA-40), the long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and (wind wave, swell, mixed wave) wave height in ...Utilizing the 45 a European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) reanalysis wave da- ta (ERA-40), the long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and (wind wave, swell, mixed wave) wave height in the global ocean at grid point 1.5°× 1.5° during the last 44 a is analyzed. It is discovered that a ma- jority of global ocean swell wave height exhibits a significant linear increasing trend (2-8 cm/decade), the distribution of annual linear trend of the significant wave height (SWH) has good consistency with that of the swell wave height. The sea surface wind speed shows an annually linear increasing trend mainly con- centrated in the most waters of Southern Hemisphere westerlies, high latitude of the North Pacific, Indian Ocean north of 30°S, the waters near the western equatorial Pacific and low latitudes of the Atlantic waters, and the annually linear decreasing mainly in central and eastern equator of the Pacific, Juan. Fernandez Archipelago, the waters near South Georgia Island in the Atlantic waters. The linear variational distribution characteristic of the wind wave height is similar to that of the sea surface wind speed. Another find is that the swell is dominant in the mixed wave, the swell index in the central ocean is generally greater than that in the offshore, and the swell index in the eastern ocean coast is greater than that in the western ocean inshore, and in year-round hemisphere westerlies the swell index is relatively low.展开更多
By the use of the 3/2 power law presented by Toba combined with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind wave, wind wave growth at a limited fetch is analytically investigated. The new wind wave growth re...By the use of the 3/2 power law presented by Toba combined with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind wave, wind wave growth at a limited fetch is analytically investigated. The new wind wave growth relations (WWGRs) are analytically derived with sheltering coefficient and wind drag coefficient as parameters. The geometrical average of observational values of sheltering coefficient and the arithmetic average of observational values of wind drag coefficient are applied to determine the new WWGRs. Comparisons with existing empirical WWGRs are made.展开更多
The authors make an endeavor to explain why a new hybrid wave model is here proposed when several such models have already been in operation and the so- called third generation wave modej is proving attractive. This p...The authors make an endeavor to explain why a new hybrid wave model is here proposed when several such models have already been in operation and the so- called third generation wave modej is proving attractive. This part of the paper is devoted to the wind wave model. Both deep and shallow water models have been developed, the former being actually a special case of the latter when water depth is great. The deep water model is exceptionally simple in form. Significant wave height is the only prognostic variable. In comparison with the usual methods to compute the energy input and dissipations empirically or by 'tuning', the proposed model has the merit that the effects of all source terms are combined into one term which is computed through empirical growth relations for significant waves, these relations being, relatively speaking, easier and more reliable to obtain than those for the source terms in the spectral energy balance equation. The discrete part of the model and the implementation of the model as a whole will be discussed in the second part of the present paper.展开更多
variation. In the area of 2 The wind system over the seas southeast of Asia (SSEA) plays an important role in China's climate this paper, ERS scatterometer winds covering the period from January 2000 to December 2...variation. In the area of 2 The wind system over the seas southeast of Asia (SSEA) plays an important role in China's climate this paper, ERS scatterometer winds covering the period from January 2000 to December 2000 and 41°N, 105 130°E were analyzed with a distance-weighting interpolation method and the monthly mean distribution of the sea surface wind speed were given, The seasonal characteristics of winds in the SSEA were analyzed. Based on WAVEWATCH Ⅲ model, distribution of significant wave height was calculated.展开更多
The lower frequency part of the theoretical wind wave spectrum proposed by the authors (Wen et al. , 1988a, b,c) has been improved and the form of spectrum is appreciably simplified. In addition to the field data coll...The lower frequency part of the theoretical wind wave spectrum proposed by the authors (Wen et al. , 1988a, b,c) has been improved and the form of spectrum is appreciably simplified. In addition to the field data collected in the Bohai Sea region and used in the previous papers, those obtained in the Huanghai Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea have been employed so that the improved spectra can be verified on a more extensive observational basis. Computed results agree with the observations well. Further comparisons have been made between the proposed spectra and the JONSWAP spectrum. Though the two types of spectrum are close to each other in form, the former shows, as a whole, better agreement with the observation than the latter. By introducing an improved relation between the peak-ness factor and significant wave steepness, the spectrum contains only significant wave height and period as parameters. For spectra given in this form, the computed peak frequencies coincide approximately with observed values and the computed peak magnitudes of spectra agree basically with observations, but, because of the statistic variability inherent in the measurements of significant wave heights and periods, there are certain discrepancies between computed and measured spectrum peak magnitudes.展开更多
Rainfall effects on wind waves and turbulence are investigated through the laboratory experiments in a large wind-wave tank. It is found that the wind waves are damped as a whole at low wind speeds, but are enhanced a...Rainfall effects on wind waves and turbulence are investigated through the laboratory experiments in a large wind-wave tank. It is found that the wind waves are damped as a whole at low wind speeds, but are enhanced at high wind speeds. This dual effect of rain on the wind waves increases with the increase of rain rate, while the influence of rainfall-area length is not observable. At the low wind speed, the corresponding turbulence in terms of the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) dissipation rate is significantly enhanced by rain- fall as the waves are damped severely. At the high wind speed, the augment of the TKE dissipation rate is suppressed while the wind waves are enhanced simultaneously. In the field, however, rainfall usually hin- ders the development of waves. In order to explain this contradiction of rainfall effect on waves, a possibility about energy transfer from turbulence to waves in case of the spectral peak of waves overlapping the inertial subrange of turbulence is assumed. It can be applied to interpret the damping phenomenon of gas trans- fer velocity in the laboratory experiments, and the variation of the TKE dissipation rates near sea surface compared with the law of wall.展开更多
The growth of frequency spectra and spectral parameters of wind waves generated by cold waves, a kind of severe weather system, in the northern East China Sea is studied in this paper. Based on a third-generation wave...The growth of frequency spectra and spectral parameters of wind waves generated by cold waves, a kind of severe weather system, in the northern East China Sea is studied in this paper. Based on a third-generation wave action model(the Simulating WAves Nearshore model), simulations were developed to analyze the spatiotemporal characteristics of wind waves and to output spectral data. It is shown that the cold wave-induced spectra can be well described by the modified Joint North Sea Wave Project spectral form. The growth of wave spectra is comprehensively reflected by the evolution of the three characteristic parameters: peak frequency, spectral peak and wave energy. Besides, the approximations of dependences between spectral parameters and the three types of universal induced factors are obtained with the least squares method and compared systematically. Fetch and peak frequency turn out to be suitable parameters to describe the spectral parameters, while the dependences on the inverse wave age vary in different sea areas. In general, the derived relationships improve on results from previous studies for better practical application of the wind wave frequency spectrum in the northern East China Sea.展开更多
In the present study, the surface elevation of wind waves observed in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrtm by use of the method of the arcsine law (MAL)....In the present study, the surface elevation of wind waves observed in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrtm by use of the method of the arcsine law (MAL). The traditional method uses the surface elevation to calculate the correlation and then estimate the frequency spectrum while the MAL, presented by Yu and l.an (1979), uses the time sequence of zero-crossing points of surface elevation rather than directly the surface elevation to calculate the correlation. 66 sets of wind wave data obtained in laboratory and 420 sets of data observed in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the examination of the method introduced by Yu and Lan. Results show that the MAL can give reliable estimation of wind wave spectra. Correlation and form of spectra estimated by the MAL are similar to those estimated by the traditional method. The peak frequency and the spectral density in peak frequency by the MAL are close to those obtained by the traditional method.展开更多
From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likehood method.The inv...From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likehood method.The investigations reveal that the angular spreading of the wave energy is consistent with cos2s(θ/2) proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al. (1963, Ocean Wad Spectra,11~136), if the bimodal distributions of wave energy are not taken into account. Bimodality occurring on higher frequency than peak frequency is too rare to affect our whole results. Surprisingly, a much broader directional spreading than that of the field, which is interpreted by the strongly nonlinear energy transfer because of the very young waves in laboratory, is found. The parameter s depends on frequency in the same way as observed by Mitsuyasu et al. (1975, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750~760)and Hasselmann et al. (1980, Journal of physical Oceanography, 10, 1264~1280) in the field, and the relationship between the four nondimensional parameters sm, fo, b1 and b2, determining the directional width, and (corresponding to the inverse of wave age) are given respectively. The observed distributions are found to agree well with the suggestion of Donelan et al. (1985, Philosophical Transaction of Royal Society of London, A315, 509~562) when applied to field waves.展开更多
-Theoretical form of equilibrium range is given on the basis of the wind wave frequency spectra proposed by Wenel al. (1988a,b,c, 1989a,b). The effects of peakness factor and water depth are discussed. In the case of ...-Theoretical form of equilibrium range is given on the basis of the wind wave frequency spectra proposed by Wenel al. (1988a,b,c, 1989a,b). The effects of peakness factor and water depth are discussed. In the case of deep water the e-quilibrium range is reduced to the form first proposed by Toba (1973) and the coefficient of the formula is shown to be the function of nondimensional fetch or peak frequency. Results of the present paper have been verified through field data.展开更多
A model on the directional frequency spectrum of wind waves for deep water is introduced. The comparisons of the proposed model with other existing models show that the proposed model is very close to the JONSWAP mode...A model on the directional frequency spectrum of wind waves for deep water is introduced. The comparisons of the proposed model with other existing models show that the proposed model is very close to the JONSWAP model and DHH model for describing the developing waves under the normal spectral bandwidth, and has a better description for the transition of the unidirectional spectrum from ω -4 to ω -5 at a position around 3ω p, i.e., three time the peak frequency. Comparisons also show that the proposed model describes closely both field data measured by a four-frequency radar and a laser-optical sensor, and laboratory data measured by a laser slope gauge and an imaging optical method. The comparisons further demonstrate that the inverse spectral bandwidth as a new wave parameter is robust for describing the spectral steepness. Finally, the formula on the local spectral-peak angular frequency is confirmed using the observed two-dimensional spectra.展开更多
Understanding the drifting motion of a small semi-submersible drifter is of vital importance regarding monitoring surface currents and the floating pollutants in coastal regions. This work addresses this issue by esta...Understanding the drifting motion of a small semi-submersible drifter is of vital importance regarding monitoring surface currents and the floating pollutants in coastal regions. This work addresses this issue by establishing a mechanistic drifting forecast model based on kinetic analysis. Taking tide–wind–wave into consideration, the forecast model is validated against in situ drifting experiment in the Radial Sand Ridges. Model results show good performance with respect to the measured drifting features, characterized by migrating back and forth twice a day with daily downwind displacements. Trajectory models are used to evaluate the influence of the individual hydrodynamic forcing. The tidal current is the fundamental dynamic condition in the Radial Sand Ridges and has the greatest impact on the drifting distance. However, it loses its leading position in the field of the daily displacement of the used drifter. The simulations reveal that different hydrodynamic forces dominate the daily displacement of the used drifter at different wind scales. The wave-induced mass transport has the greatest influence on the daily displacement at Beaufort wind scale 5–6; while wind drag contributes mostly at wind scale 2–4.展开更多
Using three-dimensional, unsteady N-S equations and k-ε turbulence model, the effect of ambient wind on the pressure wave generated by a high-speed train entering a tunnel was studied via numerical simulation. Pressu...Using three-dimensional, unsteady N-S equations and k-ε turbulence model, the effect of ambient wind on the pressure wave generated by a high-speed train entering a tunnel was studied via numerical simulation. Pressure changes of the train surface and tunnel wall were obtained as well as the flow field around the train. Results show that when the train runs downwind, the pressure change is smaller than that generated when there is no wind. When the train runs upwind, the pressure change is larger. The pressure change is more sensitive in the upwind condition than in the downwind condition. Compared with no wind condition, when the wind velocity is 10 m/s and 30 m/s, the pressure amplitude on the train head is reduced by 2.8% and 10.5%, respectively. The wall pressure amplitude at 400 m away from the tunnel entrance is reduced by 2.4% and 13.5%, respectively. When the wind velocity is-10 m/s and-30 m/s, the pressure amplitude on the train head increases by 3.0% and 17.7%, respectively. The wall pressure amplitude at 400 m away from the tunnel entrance increases by 3.6% and 18.6%, respectively. The pressure waveform slightly changes under ambient wind due to the influence of ambient wind on the pressure wave propagation speed.展开更多
A directional function for frequencies equal to and larger than the peak frequency of a wind-wave frequency spectrum is constructed by fitting the angular spreading based on the analytically derived directional spectr...A directional function for frequencies equal to and larger than the peak frequency of a wind-wave frequency spectrum is constructed by fitting the angular spreading based on the analytically derived directional spectrum of Wen et al. (1993, Journal of Oceanography, 49(2), 131~147, 149~172). For frequencies smaller than the peak frequency, the directional function is obtained by comparing and analyzing existing formulas. The nondimensional wind-wave frequency spectrum of Wen et al. (1994, Progress in Natural Seience, 4(4). 407~427;4 (5), 586~596) has been used together with the directional function just mentioned to obtain the directional spectrum for easier application.展开更多
The relationships between sea surface roughness z 0 and wind-wave parameters are analyzed,and spurious self-correlations are found in all of the parameterization schemes.Sea surface drag coefficient C D is fitted by f...The relationships between sea surface roughness z 0 and wind-wave parameters are analyzed,and spurious self-correlations are found in all of the parameterization schemes.Sea surface drag coefficient C D is fitted by four wind-wave parameters that are wave age,wave steepness,windsea Reynolds number R B and R H ,and the analyzed data are divided into laboratory,field and combined data sets respectively.Comparison and analysis of dependence of C D on wind-wave parameters show that R B can fit the C D most appropriately.Wave age and wave steepness are not suitable to fit C D with a narrow range data set.When the value of wave age has a board range,R H is not suitable to fit C D either.Three relationships between C D and R B are integrated into the bulk algorithm COARE to calculate the observational friction velocity,and the results show that the relationship between C D and R B which is fitted with field data set can describe the momentum transfer in the open ocean,under low-moderate wind speed condition,most appropriately.展开更多
基金The project supported by Key Laboratory of Space Ocean Remote Sensing and Application,Ministry of Natural Resources under contract No.2023CFO016the National Natural Science Foundation of China under contract No.61931025+1 种基金the Innovation Fund Project for Graduate Student of China University of Petroleum(East China)the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities under contract No.23CX04042A.
文摘Synthetic aperture radar(SAR)and wave spectrometers,crucial in microwave remote sensing,play an essential role in monitoring sea surface wind and wave conditions.However,they face inherent limitations in observing sea surface phenomena.SAR systems,for instance,are hindered by an azimuth cut-off phenomenon in sea surface wind field observation.Wave spectrometers,while unaffected by the azimuth cutoff phenomenon,struggle with low azimuth resolution,impacting the capture of detailed wave and wind field data.This study utilizes SAR and surface wave investigation and monitoring(SWIM)data to initially extract key feature parameters,which are then prioritized using the extreme gradient boosting(XGBoost)algorithm.The research further addresses feature collinearity through a combined analysis of feature importance and correlation,leading to the development of an inversion model for wave and wind parameters based on XGBoost.A comparative analysis of this model with ERA5 reanalysis and buoy data for of significant wave height,mean wave period,wind direction,and wind speed reveals root mean square errors of 0.212 m,0.525 s,27.446°,and 1.092 m/s,compared to 0.314 m,0.888 s,27.698°,and 1.315 m/s from buoy data,respectively.These results demonstrate the model’s effective retrieval of wave and wind parameters.Finally,the model,incorporating altimeter and scatterometer data,is evaluated against SAR/SWIM single and dual payload inversion methods across different wind speeds.This comparison highlights the model’s superior inversion accuracy over other methods.
基金funded by the National Key R&D Program of China (Grant No. 2022YFE0106300)the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant Nos. 41922044, 42106226 and 42106233)+4 种基金the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities (Grant No. 3132023133)the China Postdoctoral Science Foundation (Grant No. 2020M683022)the Guangdong Basic and Applied Basic Research Foundation (Grant No. 2020B1515020025)the fundamental research funds for the Norges Forskningsråd. (Grant No. 328886)the Research Council of Norway for financial support through the research project “Multi-scale integration and digitalization of Arctic sea ice observations and predic tion models (328960)” and basic funding for research institutes
文摘The global wave model WAVEWATCH III®works well in open water.To simulate the propagation and attenuation of waves through ice-covered water,existing simulations have considered the influence of sea ice by adding the sea ice concentration in the wind wave module;however,they simply suppose that the wind cannot penetrate the ice layer and ignore the possibility of wind forcing waves below the ice cover.To improve the simulation performance of wind wave modules in the marginal ice zone(MIZ),this study proposes a parameterization scheme by directly including the sea ice thickness.Instead of scaling the wind input with the fraction of open water,this new scheme allows partial wind input in ice-covered areas based on the ice thickness.Compared with observations in the Barents Sea in 2016,the new scheme appears to improve the modeled waves in the high-frequency band.Sensitivity experiments with and without wind wave modules show that wind waves can play an important role in areas with low sea ice concentration in the MIZ.
基金the National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.U2006229)the Research on the Qingdao Science and Technology Development Projects(No.18-1-2-20-zhc)supported by the Innovation Program approved by the Ministry of Industry and Information Technology of PR China([2016]24)。
文摘An offshore wind-wave hybrid platform could consistently and cost-effectively supply renewable power.A multi-objective optimization process is proposed for a hybrid platform with hydrodynamic coupling interaction.The effects of various critical structural parameters,spacing values,and wave directions are studied for higher energy capture and offshore platform stability.Approximation models of various key parameters are established to optimize the hybrid system,with the objects of the power capture width ratio and the stability index of the platform.The optimization results are affected by the hydrodynamic coupling interaction,with a tendency to affect the higher frequency of hydrodynamic performance in the hybrid system.After the optimization,an appropriate spacing value effectively improves energy capture performance.The optimal array distance D_(Ff),D_(Fp),the optimal structural parameters R_(p),r_(p),d_(f),r_(f),and B_(PTO)are 11.57,12.75,5.1,3.3,1.5,6.5 m,and 80436 Nm s^(-1),respectively.The peak value of the wave energy converter capture width ratio in the hybrid system increases by almost 50%,with a 54%decrease in the stability index.
基金supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (No.41076007)the National Basic Research Program of China (No. 2009CB421200)
文摘The ocean waves are generally mixed with wind wave and swell. In order to separate these two kinds of ocean waves, many wave spectral partitioning techniques have been proposed. In this study, a two-dimensional(2D) and three one-dimensional (1D) wave spectral partitioning techniques (denoted as PM, WH, and JP) are examined based on the model simulations and in-situ observations. It is shown that the 2D technique could provide the most reliable results as a whole. Compared with 2D technique, PM and JP techniques obviously overestimate the wind-wave components, and the same situation happens for WH technique at low wind speed. With the adjustment of the partitioning frequency ratio, the 1D PM technique is modified, in which the result agree well with that of the 2D scheme.
文摘The influence of long regular waves on wind waves are examined in the laboratory tank. The wave spectra of wind waves are compared when there is and there is not long waves. Besides the widely addressed suppression of wind waves by long waves, it is also found that, the presence of long regular wave induces low frequency shift of wind waves when long wave slope is small and also its frequencyf is quite apart from wind wave crest frequencies fp. The effect of long wave modulation on wind wave spectra is estimated according to Longuet-Higgins & Stewart (1960) (abbreviated as LS60 afterwards), which is found to be prominent at the large ratio of fp/f l. It's also found that, when the limitation of wave breaking on wind wave steepness is taken account of, the LS60 theory can explain the low frequency shift satisfactorily. The work suggests that, at small long wave slope and large ratio of fp/fl, the LS60 modulation mechanism together with the enhanced wave breaking may dominate the influence of long waves on wind waves.
基金The National Basic Research Program of China under contract No.2012CB957803
文摘Utilizing the 45 a European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts (ECMWF) reanalysis wave da- ta (ERA-40), the long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and (wind wave, swell, mixed wave) wave height in the global ocean at grid point 1.5°× 1.5° during the last 44 a is analyzed. It is discovered that a ma- jority of global ocean swell wave height exhibits a significant linear increasing trend (2-8 cm/decade), the distribution of annual linear trend of the significant wave height (SWH) has good consistency with that of the swell wave height. The sea surface wind speed shows an annually linear increasing trend mainly con- centrated in the most waters of Southern Hemisphere westerlies, high latitude of the North Pacific, Indian Ocean north of 30°S, the waters near the western equatorial Pacific and low latitudes of the Atlantic waters, and the annually linear decreasing mainly in central and eastern equator of the Pacific, Juan. Fernandez Archipelago, the waters near South Georgia Island in the Atlantic waters. The linear variational distribution characteristic of the wind wave height is similar to that of the sea surface wind speed. Another find is that the swell is dominant in the mixed wave, the swell index in the central ocean is generally greater than that in the offshore, and the swell index in the eastern ocean coast is greater than that in the western ocean inshore, and in year-round hemisphere westerlies the swell index is relatively low.
基金by the major state basic research program(No.G1999043809)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(No.40076003)the the Excellent Young Teachers Program of Ministry of Education,P.R.China(M.[2001]39)
文摘By the use of the 3/2 power law presented by Toba combined with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind wave, wind wave growth at a limited fetch is analytically investigated. The new wind wave growth relations (WWGRs) are analytically derived with sheltering coefficient and wind drag coefficient as parameters. The geometrical average of observational values of sheltering coefficient and the arithmetic average of observational values of wind drag coefficient are applied to determine the new WWGRs. Comparisons with existing empirical WWGRs are made.
文摘The authors make an endeavor to explain why a new hybrid wave model is here proposed when several such models have already been in operation and the so- called third generation wave modej is proving attractive. This part of the paper is devoted to the wind wave model. Both deep and shallow water models have been developed, the former being actually a special case of the latter when water depth is great. The deep water model is exceptionally simple in form. Significant wave height is the only prognostic variable. In comparison with the usual methods to compute the energy input and dissipations empirically or by 'tuning', the proposed model has the merit that the effects of all source terms are combined into one term which is computed through empirical growth relations for significant waves, these relations being, relatively speaking, easier and more reliable to obtain than those for the source terms in the spectral energy balance equation. The discrete part of the model and the implementation of the model as a whole will be discussed in the second part of the present paper.
基金Supported by the High-Tech Research and Development Program of China (863 Program, No. 2001AA633070 2003AA604040)and the National Natural Science Foundation of China (No. 40476015).
文摘variation. In the area of 2 The wind system over the seas southeast of Asia (SSEA) plays an important role in China's climate this paper, ERS scatterometer winds covering the period from January 2000 to December 2000 and 41°N, 105 130°E were analyzed with a distance-weighting interpolation method and the monthly mean distribution of the sea surface wind speed were given, The seasonal characteristics of winds in the SSEA were analyzed. Based on WAVEWATCH Ⅲ model, distribution of significant wave height was calculated.
文摘The lower frequency part of the theoretical wind wave spectrum proposed by the authors (Wen et al. , 1988a, b,c) has been improved and the form of spectrum is appreciably simplified. In addition to the field data collected in the Bohai Sea region and used in the previous papers, those obtained in the Huanghai Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea have been employed so that the improved spectra can be verified on a more extensive observational basis. Computed results agree with the observations well. Further comparisons have been made between the proposed spectra and the JONSWAP spectrum. Though the two types of spectrum are close to each other in form, the former shows, as a whole, better agreement with the observation than the latter. By introducing an improved relation between the peak-ness factor and significant wave steepness, the spectrum contains only significant wave height and period as parameters. For spectra given in this form, the computed peak frequencies coincide approximately with observed values and the computed peak magnitudes of spectra agree basically with observations, but, because of the statistic variability inherent in the measurements of significant wave heights and periods, there are certain discrepancies between computed and measured spectrum peak magnitudes.
基金The National Basic Research Program of China under contract Nos 2009CB421201 and 2005CB422301the National NaturalScience Foundation of China under contract Nos 41076007,40676014,40490263 and 40830959
文摘Rainfall effects on wind waves and turbulence are investigated through the laboratory experiments in a large wind-wave tank. It is found that the wind waves are damped as a whole at low wind speeds, but are enhanced at high wind speeds. This dual effect of rain on the wind waves increases with the increase of rain rate, while the influence of rainfall-area length is not observable. At the low wind speed, the corresponding turbulence in terms of the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) dissipation rate is significantly enhanced by rain- fall as the waves are damped severely. At the high wind speed, the augment of the TKE dissipation rate is suppressed while the wind waves are enhanced simultaneously. In the field, however, rainfall usually hin- ders the development of waves. In order to explain this contradiction of rainfall effect on waves, a possibility about energy transfer from turbulence to waves in case of the spectral peak of waves overlapping the inertial subrange of turbulence is assumed. It can be applied to interpret the damping phenomenon of gas trans- fer velocity in the laboratory experiments, and the variation of the TKE dissipation rates near sea surface compared with the law of wall.
基金Supported by the National Key Research and Development Program of China(No.2016YFC1402000)the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Nos.41376027,41406017,U1406401,41421005)
文摘The growth of frequency spectra and spectral parameters of wind waves generated by cold waves, a kind of severe weather system, in the northern East China Sea is studied in this paper. Based on a third-generation wave action model(the Simulating WAves Nearshore model), simulations were developed to analyze the spatiotemporal characteristics of wind waves and to output spectral data. It is shown that the cold wave-induced spectra can be well described by the modified Joint North Sea Wave Project spectral form. The growth of wave spectra is comprehensively reflected by the evolution of the three characteristic parameters: peak frequency, spectral peak and wave energy. Besides, the approximations of dependences between spectral parameters and the three types of universal induced factors are obtained with the least squares method and compared systematically. Fetch and peak frequency turn out to be suitable parameters to describe the spectral parameters, while the dependences on the inverse wave age vary in different sea areas. In general, the derived relationships improve on results from previous studies for better practical application of the wind wave frequency spectrum in the northern East China Sea.
基金This project was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China(Grant No.40406008) the Foundation for Open Projects of the Key Laboratory of Physical Oceanography,Ministry of Education,China(Grant No.200309)
文摘In the present study, the surface elevation of wind waves observed in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrtm by use of the method of the arcsine law (MAL). The traditional method uses the surface elevation to calculate the correlation and then estimate the frequency spectrum while the MAL, presented by Yu and l.an (1979), uses the time sequence of zero-crossing points of surface elevation rather than directly the surface elevation to calculate the correlation. 66 sets of wind wave data obtained in laboratory and 420 sets of data observed in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the examination of the method introduced by Yu and Lan. Results show that the MAL can give reliable estimation of wind wave spectra. Correlation and form of spectra estimated by the MAL are similar to those estimated by the traditional method. The peak frequency and the spectral density in peak frequency by the MAL are close to those obtained by the traditional method.
文摘From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likehood method.The investigations reveal that the angular spreading of the wave energy is consistent with cos2s(θ/2) proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al. (1963, Ocean Wad Spectra,11~136), if the bimodal distributions of wave energy are not taken into account. Bimodality occurring on higher frequency than peak frequency is too rare to affect our whole results. Surprisingly, a much broader directional spreading than that of the field, which is interpreted by the strongly nonlinear energy transfer because of the very young waves in laboratory, is found. The parameter s depends on frequency in the same way as observed by Mitsuyasu et al. (1975, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750~760)and Hasselmann et al. (1980, Journal of physical Oceanography, 10, 1264~1280) in the field, and the relationship between the four nondimensional parameters sm, fo, b1 and b2, determining the directional width, and (corresponding to the inverse of wave age) are given respectively. The observed distributions are found to agree well with the suggestion of Donelan et al. (1985, Philosophical Transaction of Royal Society of London, A315, 509~562) when applied to field waves.
文摘-Theoretical form of equilibrium range is given on the basis of the wind wave frequency spectra proposed by Wenel al. (1988a,b,c, 1989a,b). The effects of peakness factor and water depth are discussed. In the case of deep water the e-quilibrium range is reduced to the form first proposed by Toba (1973) and the coefficient of the formula is shown to be the function of nondimensional fetch or peak frequency. Results of the present paper have been verified through field data.
基金supported by the National High-Technology Development Project of China through Grant No.863-2001633030 and No.863-2001633080supported partially by the National Aeronautics and Space Administration(NASA)through Grant NAG5-12745+1 种基金by the Office of Naval Research(ONR)through Grant N00014-03-1-0337by the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration(NOAA)through Grant NA17EC2449.
文摘A model on the directional frequency spectrum of wind waves for deep water is introduced. The comparisons of the proposed model with other existing models show that the proposed model is very close to the JONSWAP model and DHH model for describing the developing waves under the normal spectral bandwidth, and has a better description for the transition of the unidirectional spectrum from ω -4 to ω -5 at a position around 3ω p, i.e., three time the peak frequency. Comparisons also show that the proposed model describes closely both field data measured by a four-frequency radar and a laser-optical sensor, and laboratory data measured by a laser slope gauge and an imaging optical method. The comparisons further demonstrate that the inverse spectral bandwidth as a new wave parameter is robust for describing the spectral steepness. Finally, the formula on the local spectral-peak angular frequency is confirmed using the observed two-dimensional spectra.
基金supported by the National Key Research and Development Program of China(Grant No.2017YFC0405401)the National Science&Technology Pillar Program(Grant No.2012BAB03B01)+1 种基金the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central Universities,Hohai University(Grant No.2014B30914)the Natural Science Foundation of Jiangsu Province(Grant No.BK2012411)
文摘Understanding the drifting motion of a small semi-submersible drifter is of vital importance regarding monitoring surface currents and the floating pollutants in coastal regions. This work addresses this issue by establishing a mechanistic drifting forecast model based on kinetic analysis. Taking tide–wind–wave into consideration, the forecast model is validated against in situ drifting experiment in the Radial Sand Ridges. Model results show good performance with respect to the measured drifting features, characterized by migrating back and forth twice a day with daily downwind displacements. Trajectory models are used to evaluate the influence of the individual hydrodynamic forcing. The tidal current is the fundamental dynamic condition in the Radial Sand Ridges and has the greatest impact on the drifting distance. However, it loses its leading position in the field of the daily displacement of the used drifter. The simulations reveal that different hydrodynamic forces dominate the daily displacement of the used drifter at different wind scales. The wave-induced mass transport has the greatest influence on the daily displacement at Beaufort wind scale 5–6; while wind drag contributes mostly at wind scale 2–4.
基金Projects(U1134203,51575538)supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of ChinaProject(2014T001-A)supported by the Technological Research and Development Program of China Railways CorporationProject(2015ZZTS210)supported by the Fundamental Research Funds for the Central South Universities of China
文摘Using three-dimensional, unsteady N-S equations and k-ε turbulence model, the effect of ambient wind on the pressure wave generated by a high-speed train entering a tunnel was studied via numerical simulation. Pressure changes of the train surface and tunnel wall were obtained as well as the flow field around the train. Results show that when the train runs downwind, the pressure change is smaller than that generated when there is no wind. When the train runs upwind, the pressure change is larger. The pressure change is more sensitive in the upwind condition than in the downwind condition. Compared with no wind condition, when the wind velocity is 10 m/s and 30 m/s, the pressure amplitude on the train head is reduced by 2.8% and 10.5%, respectively. The wall pressure amplitude at 400 m away from the tunnel entrance is reduced by 2.4% and 13.5%, respectively. When the wind velocity is-10 m/s and-30 m/s, the pressure amplitude on the train head increases by 3.0% and 17.7%, respectively. The wall pressure amplitude at 400 m away from the tunnel entrance increases by 3.6% and 18.6%, respectively. The pressure waveform slightly changes under ambient wind due to the influence of ambient wind on the pressure wave propagation speed.
文摘A directional function for frequencies equal to and larger than the peak frequency of a wind-wave frequency spectrum is constructed by fitting the angular spreading based on the analytically derived directional spectrum of Wen et al. (1993, Journal of Oceanography, 49(2), 131~147, 149~172). For frequencies smaller than the peak frequency, the directional function is obtained by comparing and analyzing existing formulas. The nondimensional wind-wave frequency spectrum of Wen et al. (1994, Progress in Natural Seience, 4(4). 407~427;4 (5), 586~596) has been used together with the directional function just mentioned to obtain the directional spectrum for easier application.
基金The National Natural Science Foundation of China under Grant Nos 40675056 41076074National Key Basic Research Development Program under Grant No.2007CB411805the Basic Theory Foundation of Institute of Meteorology, PLA University of Science and Technology
文摘The relationships between sea surface roughness z 0 and wind-wave parameters are analyzed,and spurious self-correlations are found in all of the parameterization schemes.Sea surface drag coefficient C D is fitted by four wind-wave parameters that are wave age,wave steepness,windsea Reynolds number R B and R H ,and the analyzed data are divided into laboratory,field and combined data sets respectively.Comparison and analysis of dependence of C D on wind-wave parameters show that R B can fit the C D most appropriately.Wave age and wave steepness are not suitable to fit C D with a narrow range data set.When the value of wave age has a board range,R H is not suitable to fit C D either.Three relationships between C D and R B are integrated into the bulk algorithm COARE to calculate the observational friction velocity,and the results show that the relationship between C D and R B which is fitted with field data set can describe the momentum transfer in the open ocean,under low-moderate wind speed condition,most appropriately.