An empirical method for joint inversion of wave and wind parameters based on SAR and wave spectrometer data

Synthetic aperture radar(SAR)and wave spectrometers,crucial in microwave remote sensing,play an essential role in monitoring sea surface wind and wave conditions.However,they face inherent limitations in observing sea surface phenomena.SAR systems,for instance,are hindered by an azimuth cut-off phenomenon in sea surface wind field observation.Wave spectrometers,while unaffected by the azimuth cutoff phenomenon,struggle with low azimuth resolution,impacting the capture of detailed wave and wind field data.This study utilizes SAR and surface wave investigation and monitoring(SWIM)data to initially extract key feature parameters,which are then prioritized using the extreme gradient boosting(XGBoost)algorithm.The research further addresses feature collinearity through a combined analysis of feature importance and correlation,leading to the development of an inversion model for wave and wind parameters based on XGBoost.A comparative analysis of this model with ERA5 reanalysis and buoy data for of significant wave height,mean wave period,wind direction,and wind speed reveals root mean square errors of 0.212 m,0.525 s,27.446°,and 1.092 m/s,compared to 0.314 m,0.888 s,27.698°,and 1.315 m/s from buoy data,respectively.These results demonstrate the model’s effective retrieval of wave and wind parameters.Finally,the model,incorporating altimeter and scatterometer data,is evaluated against SAR/SWIM single and dual payload inversion methods across different wind speeds.This comparison highlights the model’s superior inversion accuracy over other methods.

A Parameterization Scheme for Wind Wave Modules that Includes the Sea Ice Thickness in the Marginal Ice Zone

The global wave model WAVEWATCH III®works well in open water.To simulate the propagation and attenuation of waves through ice-covered water,existing simulations have considered the influence of sea ice by adding the sea ice concentration in the wind wave module;however,they simply suppose that the wind cannot penetrate the ice layer and ignore the possibility of wind forcing waves below the ice cover.To improve the simulation performance of wind wave modules in the marginal ice zone(MIZ),this study proposes a parameterization scheme by directly including the sea ice thickness.Instead of scaling the wind input with the fraction of open water,this new scheme allows partial wind input in ice-covered areas based on the ice thickness.Compared with observations in the Barents Sea in 2016,the new scheme appears to improve the modeled waves in the high-frequency band.Sensitivity experiments with and without wind wave modules show that wind waves can play an important role in areas with low sea ice concentration in the MIZ.

Multi-Objective Optimal Design of the Wind-Wave Hybrid Platform with the Coupling Interaction

An offshore wind-wave hybrid platform could consistently and cost-effectively supply renewable power.A multi-objective optimization process is proposed for a hybrid platform with hydrodynamic coupling interaction.The effects of various critical structural parameters,spacing values,and wave directions are studied for higher energy capture and offshore platform stability.Approximation models of various key parameters are established to optimize the hybrid system,with the objects of the power capture width ratio and the stability index of the platform.The optimization results are affected by the hydrodynamic coupling interaction,with a tendency to affect the higher frequency of hydrodynamic performance in the hybrid system.After the optimization,an appropriate spacing value effectively improves energy capture performance.The optimal array distance D_(Ff),D_(Fp),the optimal structural parameters R_(p),r_(p),d_(f),r_(f),and B_(PTO)are 11.57,12.75,5.1,3.3,1.5,6.5 m,and 80436 Nm s^(-1),respectively.The peak value of the wave energy converter capture width ratio in the hybrid system increases by almost 50%,with a 54%decrease in the stability index.

The long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and the wave height (wind wave, swell, mixed wave) in global ocean during the last 44 a

Utilizing the 45 a European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts （ECMWF） reanalysis wave da- ta （ERA-40）, the long-term trend of the sea surface wind speed and （wind wave, swell, mixed wave） wave height in the global ocean at grid point 1.5°× 1.5° during the last 44 a is analyzed. It is discovered that a ma- jority of global ocean swell wave height exhibits a significant linear increasing trend （2-8 cm/decade）, the distribution of annual linear trend of the significant wave height （SWH） has good consistency with that of the swell wave height. The sea surface wind speed shows an annually linear increasing trend mainly con- centrated in the most waters of Southern Hemisphere westerlies, high latitude of the North Pacific, Indian Ocean north of 30°S, the waters near the western equatorial Pacific and low latitudes of the Atlantic waters, and the annually linear decreasing mainly in central and eastern equator of the Pacific, Juan. Fernandez Archipelago, the waters near South Georgia Island in the Atlantic waters. The linear variational distribution characteristic of the wind wave height is similar to that of the sea surface wind speed. Another find is that the swell is dominant in the mixed wave, the swell index in the central ocean is generally greater than that in the offshore, and the swell index in the eastern ocean coast is greater than that in the western ocean inshore, and in year-round hemisphere westerlies the swell index is relatively low.

Analytically Derived Wind Wave Growth Relations

By the use of the 3/2 power law presented by Toba combined with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind wave, wind wave growth at a limited fetch is analytically investigated. The new wind wave growth relations (WWGRs) are analytically derived with sheltering coefficient and wind drag coefficient as parameters. The geometrical average of observational values of sheltering coefficient and the arithmetic average of observational values of wind drag coefficient are applied to determine the new WWGRs. Comparisons with existing empirical WWGRs are made.

A hybrid model for numerical wave forecasting and its implementation-Ⅰ.The wind wave model

The authors make an endeavor to explain why a new hybrid wave model is here proposed when several such models have already been in operation and the so- called third generation wave modej is proving attractive. This part of the paper is devoted to the wind wave model. Both deep and shallow water models have been developed, the former being actually a special case of the latter when water depth is great. The deep water model is exceptionally simple in form. Significant wave height is the only prognostic variable. In comparison with the usual methods to compute the energy input and dissipations empirically or by 'tuning', the proposed model has the merit that the effects of all source terms are combined into one term which is computed through empirical growth relations for significant waves, these relations being, relatively speaking, easier and more reliable to obtain than those for the source terms in the spectral energy balance equation. The discrete part of the model and the implementation of the model as a whole will be discussed in the second part of the present paper.

Improved form of wind wave frequency spectrum

The lower frequency part of the theoretical wind wave spectrum proposed by the authors (Wen et al. , 1988a, b,c) has been improved and the form of spectrum is appreciably simplified. In addition to the field data collected in the Bohai Sea region and used in the previous papers, those obtained in the Huanghai Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea have been employed so that the improved spectra can be verified on a more extensive observational basis. Computed results agree with the observations well. Further comparisons have been made between the proposed spectra and the JONSWAP spectrum. Though the two types of spectrum are close to each other in form, the former shows, as a whole, better agreement with the observation than the latter. By introducing an improved relation between the peak-ness factor and significant wave steepness, the spectrum contains only significant wave height and period as parameters. For spectra given in this form, the computed peak frequencies coincide approximately with observed values and the computed peak magnitudes of spectra agree basically with observations, but, because of the statistic variability inherent in the measurements of significant wave heights and periods, there are certain discrepancies between computed and measured spectrum peak magnitudes.

Rainfall effect on wind waves and the turbulence beneath air-sea interface

Rainfall effects on wind waves and turbulence are investigated through the laboratory experiments in a large wind-wave tank. It is found that the wind waves are damped as a whole at low wind speeds, but are enhanced at high wind speeds. This dual effect of rain on the wind waves increases with the increase of rain rate, while the influence of rainfall-area length is not observable. At the low wind speed, the corresponding turbulence in terms of the turbulent kinetic energy （TKE） dissipation rate is significantly enhanced by rain- fall as the waves are damped severely. At the high wind speed, the augment of the TKE dissipation rate is suppressed while the wind waves are enhanced simultaneously. In the field, however, rainfall usually hin- ders the development of waves. In order to explain this contradiction of rainfall effect on waves, a possibility about energy transfer from turbulence to waves in case of the spectral peak of waves overlapping the inertial subrange of turbulence is assumed. It can be applied to interpret the damping phenomenon of gas trans- fer velocity in the laboratory experiments, and the variation of the TKE dissipation rates near sea surface compared with the law of wall.

Analysis on monthly-averaged distribution of sea surface wind and wave over the seas southeast of Asia using ERS-2 scatterometer data

在亚洲(SSEA ) 的海东南上的风系在中国的气候变化起一个重要作用。在这篇论文， ERS scatterometer 弯屈从 2000 年 1 月盖住时期到 2000 年 12 月和 2-41 ° N 的区域， 105-130 ° E 与重量 adistance 插值方法和海面风速度的每月吝啬的分发被分析被给。在 SSEA 的风的季节的特征被分析。基于的 onWAVEWATCH Ⅲ模型，有效波高的分发被计算。

Estimation of Wind Wave Frequency Spectra by Use of the Arcsine Law

In the present study, the surface elevation of wind waves observed in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrtm by use of the method of the arcsine law （MAL）. The traditional method uses the surface elevation to calculate the correlation and then estimate the frequency spectrum while the MAL, presented by Yu and l.an （1979）, uses the time sequence of zero-crossing points of surface elevation rather than directly the surface elevation to calculate the correlation. 66 sets of wind wave data obtained in laboratory and 420 sets of data observed in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the examination of the method introduced by Yu and Lan. Results show that the MAL can give reliable estimation of wind wave spectra. Correlation and form of spectra estimated by the MAL are similar to those estimated by the traditional method. The peak frequency and the spectral density in peak frequency by the MAL are close to those obtained by the traditional method.

A laboratory study of directional spectra with maximum likelihood method─I Developing wind wave

From measurements by a circular array consisting of 18 wave gauges in a large wave tank, directional spectra of wind-generated waves in deep water are systematically determined by using maximum likehood method.The investigations reveal that the angular spreading of the wave energy is consistent with cos2s(θ/2) proposed by Longuet-Higgins et al. (1963, Ocean Wad Spectra,11~136), if the bimodal distributions of wave energy are not taken into account. Bimodality occurring on higher frequency than peak frequency is too rare to affect our whole results. Surprisingly, a much broader directional spreading than that of the field, which is interpreted by the strongly nonlinear energy transfer because of the very young waves in laboratory, is found. The parameter s depends on frequency in the same way as observed by Mitsuyasu et al. (1975, Journal of Physical Oceanography, 5, 750~760)and Hasselmann et al. (1980, Journal of physical Oceanography, 10, 1264~1280) in the field, and the relationship between the four nondimensional parameters sm, fo, b1 and b2, determining the directional width, and (corresponding to the inverse of wave age) are given respectively. The observed distributions are found to agree well with the suggestion of Donelan et al. (1985, Philosophical Transaction of Royal Society of London, A315, 509~562) when applied to field waves.

The equilibrium range of wind wave frequency spectrum

-Theoretical form of equilibrium range is given on the basis of the wind wave frequency spectra proposed by Wenel al. (1988a,b,c, 1989a,b). The effects of peakness factor and water depth are discussed. In the case of deep water the e-quilibrium range is reduced to the form first proposed by Toba (1973) and the coefficient of the formula is shown to be the function of nondimensional fetch or peak frequency. Results of the present paper have been verified through field data.

Dynamic Performance of a Semi-Submersible Platform Subject to Wind and Waves

By applying experimental and numerical simulations, the motion performance of a semi-submersible platform with mooring positoning system under combined actions of wind and waves is studied. The numerical simulation is conducted by the method of nonlinear time domain coupled analysis, and the mooring forces are calculated by the piecewise extrapolating method. The scale in the model experiment is 1:100, and the mooring system of the model is designed with the method of equivalent water-depth truncation by comparing the numerical and the experimental results, the platform motion and mooring forces subject to wind and waves are investigated. The results indicate that the numerically simulated mooring forces agree well with the experimental results in static equivalent field, but show some difference in dynamic equivalent field; the numerically simulated platform motions coincide well with the experimental results. The maximum motion of the platform under operating conditions is 20.5 m. It means that the horizontal displacement is 2% less than the water depth, which satisfies the operating requirements.

Mechanistic Drifting Forecast Model for A Small Semi-Submersible Drifter Under Tide–Wind–Wave Conditions

Understanding the drifting motion of a small semi-submersible drifter is of vital importance regarding monitoring surface currents and the floating pollutants in coastal regions. This work addresses this issue by establishing a mechanistic drifting forecast model based on kinetic analysis. Taking tide–wind–wave into consideration, the forecast model is validated against in situ drifting experiment in the Radial Sand Ridges. Model results show good performance with respect to the measured drifting features, characterized by migrating back and forth twice a day with daily downwind displacements. Trajectory models are used to evaluate the influence of the individual hydrodynamic forcing. The tidal current is the fundamental dynamic condition in the Radial Sand Ridges and has the greatest impact on the drifting distance. However, it loses its leading position in the field of the daily displacement of the used drifter. The simulations reveal that different hydrodynamic forces dominate the daily displacement of the used drifter at different wind scales. The wave-induced mass transport has the greatest influence on the daily displacement at Beaufort wind scale 5–6; while wind drag contributes mostly at wind scale 2–4.

A proposed directional function and wind-wave directional spectrum

A directional function for frequencies equal to and larger than the peak frequency of a wind-wave frequency spectrum is constructed by fitting the angular spreading based on the analytically derived directional spectrum of Wen et al. (1993, Journal of Oceanography, 49(2), 131～147, 149～172). For frequencies smaller than the peak frequency, the directional function is obtained by comparing and analyzing existing formulas. The nondimensional wind-wave frequency spectrum of Wen et al. (1994, Progress in Natural Seience, 4(4). 407～427;4 (5), 586～596) has been used together with the directional function just mentioned to obtain the directional spectrum for easier application.

Effect of ambient wind on pressure wave generated by high-speed train entering a tunnel

Using three-dimensional, unsteady N-S equations and k-ε turbulence model, the effect of ambient wind on the pressure wave generated by a high-speed train entering a tunnel was studied via numerical simulation. Pressure changes of the train surface and tunnel wall were obtained as well as the flow field around the train. Results show that when the train runs downwind, the pressure change is smaller than that generated when there is no wind. When the train runs upwind, the pressure change is larger. The pressure change is more sensitive in the upwind condition than in the downwind condition. Compared with no wind condition, when the wind velocity is 10 m/s and 30 m/s, the pressure amplitude on the train head is reduced by 2.8% and 10.5%, respectively. The wall pressure amplitude at 400 m away from the tunnel entrance is reduced by 2.4% and 13.5%, respectively. When the wind velocity is-10 m/s and-30 m/s, the pressure amplitude on the train head increases by 3.0% and 17.7%, respectively. The wall pressure amplitude at 400 m away from the tunnel entrance increases by 3.6% and 18.6%, respectively. The pressure waveform slightly changes under ambient wind due to the influence of ambient wind on the pressure wave propagation speed.

Dependence of sea surface drag coefficient on wind-wave parameters

The relationships between sea surface roughness z 0 and wind-wave parameters are analyzed,and spurious self-correlations are found in all of the parameterization schemes.Sea surface drag coefficient C D is fitted by four wind-wave parameters that are wave age,wave steepness,windsea Reynolds number R B and R H ,and the analyzed data are divided into laboratory,field and combined data sets respectively.Comparison and analysis of dependence of C D on wind-wave parameters show that R B can fit the C D most appropriately.Wave age and wave steepness are not suitable to fit C D with a narrow range data set.When the value of wave age has a board range,R H is not suitable to fit C D either.Three relationships between C D and R B are integrated into the bulk algorithm COARE to calculate the observational friction velocity,and the results show that the relationship between C D and R B which is fitted with field data set can describe the momentum transfer in the open ocean,under low-moderate wind speed condition,most appropriately.

New Interpretation of Dependence of Wind Stress on Wave State

Based on observations from buoys, it is found that the wave age is well correlated with the nondimensional wave height, and this correlation is best described by a 3/5-power law. This similarity law is valid in the cases of wind waves as well as swells under natural sea states. On the basis of the 3/5-power law combined with the well-known 3/2-power law I it is shown that the wave-induced wind stress increases rapidly with wave age, indicating that the traditional observations or analytic techniques have only given the turbulent Reynolds stress induced by short wind waves, but excluded the long-wave-induced wind stress. The latter constitutes a small fraction to the total wind stress when the wave age is smaller than 1.0. The increase of sea-surface roughness with wave age can be attributed to wave breaking.

EFFECT OF WATER DEPTH ON WIND-WAVE FREQUENCY SPECTRUM Ⅰ.SPECTRAL FORM

Wen et al.’s odhed dewiogh to obtain wind-wave frequency spectrum in deep was used toderive the spectrum in finite depth water. The spedrum S（ω） （ω bein angular frequency） when normalizedwith the zeroth moment m and peak frequercyω。 contains in adrition to the peakness factor P=ω。S（ω。）/m。, a twth parameter n=（2πm。）1/2d （d being water depPth）, so the spatrum behavior can bestudies for different ware growth stages and water depths.

Study on the growth of wind wave frequency spectra generated by cold waves in the northern East China Sea

The growth of frequency spectra and spectral parameters of wind waves generated by cold waves, a kind of severe weather system, in the northern East China Sea is studied in this paper. Based on a third-generation wave action model(the Simulating WAves Nearshore model), simulations were developed to analyze the spatiotemporal characteristics of wind waves and to output spectral data. It is shown that the cold wave-induced spectra can be well described by the modified Joint North Sea Wave Project spectral form. The growth of wave spectra is comprehensively reflected by the evolution of the three characteristic parameters: peak frequency, spectral peak and wave energy. Besides, the approximations of dependences between spectral parameters and the three types of universal induced factors are obtained with the least squares method and compared systematically. Fetch and peak frequency turn out to be suitable parameters to describe the spectral parameters, while the dependences on the inverse wave age vary in different sea areas. In general, the derived relationships improve on results from previous studies for better practical application of the wind wave frequency spectrum in the northern East China Sea.