One-bath Dyeing of Polyester/Wool Blend with Disperse Dyes

The role of auxiliary LAB as vehicle in dyeing polyester/wool blends with disperse dyes is described. Dye exhaustion and bonding on polyester/wool samples are studied under different experimental conditions - the LAB amount, the temperature and pH value- to achieve optimum conditions. The results are compared with those obtained with and without conventional dyeing auxiliary products. Although dye exhaustion is higher in the presence of commercial carriers, the dye bonded increases markedly in the presence of auxiliary LAB in both fibers. The role played by auxiliary LAB in polyester/wool blend dyeing can provide a new method for this process.

EFFECT OF ELASTOMER ON WRINKLE RECOVERY OF SILK AND SILK/WOOL BLEND FABRICS

An investigation is described in which various polyfunctional elastomers( cationic methylaminopolysiloxane,nonic concentrated glyoxal resin and anionicpolyurethane etc. ) were applied on silk,wool and silk/ wool blend fabrics forimprovement wrinkle recovery.A study on this paper describes wrinkle recovery oftreated fabrics by the thermobench method,and ascertains reason which elastomerimproves wrinkle recovery of silk and silk/ wool blend fabrics according as results ofthe DSC,the SEM and the acid or alkali resistance.

WRINKLE RECOVERY OF WOOL AND WOOL/SILK BLENDS

The wrinking properties of light-weight woven fabrics mabe from wool and a range ofwool/silk blends have been assessed using the“Thermobench”test method.The effects ofageing/annealing,and of interyarn and interfibre friction,have been compared for the vani-ous fabrics.The results of attemps to improve wrinkle recovery by chemical modification arepresented,and possible directions for future work are considered.

Production of Silk & Wool Blended Worsted Cloth

Wool & silk blended fancy suiting is desinged. Through trial-production with silk sliver and Australian wool top, the spinning technology is investigated, and the relationship of spinning technology, blending ratio and yarn construction is discussed.

亚麻面料仿旧色彩生态染整研究

为满足亚麻面料利用自带色素达到表面泛白仿旧色彩和柔软手感的需求,研究亚麻面料表面氧漂、再退煮的工艺处方及条件。结果表明,100%双氧水用量为3.0%、渗透剂JFC用量为2.0%、精练粉TF135A用量为10.0%、汽蒸时间30 min,亚麻面料底面色素保留,色牢度好,表面泛白,仿旧效果好;退煮酶TF-165用量为2.0%、60℃处理40 min,面料的毛效为8.18 cm,达到服用要求。

羊毛混纺面料生产流程的碳图谱建模与应用

纺织行业绿色转型从原材料生产、纺纱、织造、染整到最终产品循环供应网络的链路长、碳足迹流向和分布极为复杂,面向全生命周期的绿色化碳追溯和管理非常困难。以羊毛混纺面料生产为研究对象,采用流程挖掘和图谱等工业智能技术,提出一种面料生产的碳图谱建模、碳排放量化和应用方法。首先,建立羊毛混纺面料各级工序流程中能量流、物料流、人员流和碳流4个维度的生产流程工序级别碳排放量化模型;其次,在量化模型基础上提出了一种羊毛混纺面料生产流程知识的碳图谱建模方法,可实现以订单为线索的面料生产流程工序碳排放计算;最后,利用流程挖掘技术生成直接跟随图,可视分析面料生产过程的全局碳排放分布与流向,可实现全局和局部碳排放多角度监测。以上海某纺织企业生产流程为例,进一步验证本文所提出的羊毛混纺面料生产流程碳排放图谱的有效性,以期为企业的碳减排工作提供指导和决策参考。

Modal/Wool混纺精纺纱的实践

介绍新型绿色纤维Modal和毛混纺的生产工艺 ,对该生产工艺进行了研究与分析 。

基于深度学习的毛/粘混纺织物混纺比检测技术

针对常规织物混纺比检测方法工作效率低的问题,提出一种基于深度学习技术的毛/粘混纺织物混纺比检测方法。以单阶段目标检测算法(YOLOv5)为基础,采集羊毛纤维和粘胶纤维的光学显微镜图像构建数据集,使用CSPDarknet53网络(Cross Stage Partial Network)从数据集中提取纤维特征,通过特征金字塔(FPN)和路径聚合网络(PAN)结合的方式完成不同层次特征的融合;在主干网络引入卷积注意力模块(CBAM)以加强局部特征的提取能力。训练后的YOLOv5模型平均精度均值达0.93,可实现毛/粘混纺织物混纺比的自动检测。采用光学显微镜法和化学溶解法对模型的可靠性进行校验,差异在2%以内,说明该方法在毛/粘混纺织物混纺比快速检测领域具有良好的应用前景。

CNTs包覆功能性粘胶/羊毛混纺纱性能研究

文章采用氢氧化钠溶液预处理后,在功能性粘胶/羊毛混纺纱表面包覆碳纳米管(CNTs)导电层,制备成导电纱线。通过扫描电子显微镜(SEM)、傅里叶红外光谱仪(FTIR)、X射线光电子能谱(XPS)、数字万用表对CNTs包覆功能性粘胶/羊毛混纺纱的形貌、结构与性能进行了表征。结果表明,薄荷改性粘胶纤维/羊毛混纺纱和艾草改性粘胶纤维/羊毛混纺纱中,随着羊毛混纺比含量的降低,CNTs在纱线表面的负载量增加,纱线电阻值变小,导电性能更好。

棉/丝光羊毛集聚纺混纺纱工艺参数的优化

为了进一步提高棉/丝光羊毛混纺纱的可纺性,开发高端贴身面料。本文采用集聚纺纺制22 tex棉/丝光羊毛(80/20)混纺纱,并探讨混纺纱细纱工序的纺纱工艺配置。通过正交试验设计对细纱工序中影响纱线性能的后区牵伸倍数、隔距块规格和锭速3个关键工艺参数进行组合,对不同组合纺制纱线的强力、毛羽和条干等主要指标进行测试,并通过极差法分析各因素对纱线质量的影响程度,选出最优工艺组合。试验结果表明:当后区牵伸倍数为1.16倍、隔距块规格为3.0 mm、锭子转速为11000 r/min时,纱线的综合性能指标更好。棉/丝光羊毛集聚纺混纺纱关键工艺的研究可为棉毛混纺纱的纺制提供参考。

毛/涤筒纱一浴法染色工艺技术

文章探讨了毛/涤混纺筒纱一浴法染色工艺,通过合理选择染色助剂用量,优化染色工艺参数,提高混纺纱线的染色质量。当羊毛保护剂HTP质量浓度为4.0 g/L,载体P-EW质量浓度为3.0 g/L,毛用匀染剂SET质量浓度为1.0 g/L,涤用匀染剂TOP质量浓度为1.0 g/L时,可明显提高毛/涤混纺筒纱染色的匀染性,各项色牢度符合要求,羊毛纤维无明显损伤,同时缩短了生产时间,降低了企业生产成本,节能减排,促进了筒纱染色的绿色低碳发展。

Analytical Algorithms for the Blend Ratios by Fibre-bundle Tensile Curves Part Ⅱ: Calculations of the Modulus Method and the Percentage Method

The principles for the modulus method and the percentage method are established and discussed in the part following Part Ⅰ of the series papers, in which we proposed the various algorithms of the strength method and the work method. The samples of Wool/PET blended fibre bundles, the method of fibre-bundle tensile tests and the typical specific stress-extension curves from the fibre bundles with different blend ratios are the same as in Part Ⅰ. It can be found that the theoretical results estimated by the modulus and percentage methods accord with the experimental values highly though the calculations of the two methods are slightly more complex than those of the strength and work methods. Especially, using the modulus method can not only avoid the influence of the error caused by the determination of the tensile curve of no fibre breaking in stretching, Y(e), but also need not to know the tensile curves of mono-component fibre bundles in certain calculation. The latter advantage of the modulus method exists in the percentage method too, but it should adopt the improved calculation of ones.

Analytical Algorithms for the Blend Ratios by Fibre-bundle Tensile Curves Part Ⅲ: The Definition Method and the Relationships between the Blend Ratio and Tensile Parameters Calculated from Different Ways

The algorithms of the strength, work, modulus and percentage methods have been introduced and discussed in Part Ⅰ and Part Ⅱ of the series papers. As the following, the percentage-function calculation and the frequency-function calculation of the definition method are defined and developed in detail. Meanwhile, the procedures to find the tensile parameters are analysed experimentally and involve “ED” being the average values of the corresponding tensile parameters of each bundle tensile curve measured; “EC” being the tensile parameters obtained from the averaged experimental tensile curve; and “TC” being the parameters of the theoretical tensile curve according to the corresponding nominal blend ratio. The theoretical and experimental results indicate that the blend ratio estimated by the definition method from wool/polyester blended fibre bundles has a high correlation with the actual blend ratio though the variables to be known in this method are the most of all the methods and there exist the difficulty to solve fibre bundle tensile behaviour without fibre broken in accuracy and that there are high correlations between the EC and TC data and the tensile parameters should be calculated using the EC method rather than the ED method with the exception of the bundle initial modulus. The relationships between blend ratios and the tensile properties of blended fibre bundles can be used to select the optimum blend ratio of blended tops or yarns.

涤纶与羊毛混纺染色工艺影响因素研究

为了提高羊毛/涤纶混纺产品染色质量,研究了温度、pH值对羊毛和涤纶染色效果的影响,实验发现常规涤纶染色条件较为苛刻,相比之下改性涤纶在常规条件下可以进行较好染色,且改性涤纶与普通涤纶的最终上染效果接近,易于生产。

羊毛/聚苯硫醚砜纤维混纺面料的开发

为了开发兼具阻燃性能和舒适性能的面料,选用新型本征阻燃聚苯硫醚砜(PPSO)纤维与羊毛纤维混纺,开发了羊毛/PPSO(50/50)半精纺面料,探讨了其纺纱和织造的生产工艺并分析了生产过程中需要注意的问题。经过测试,成品面料的常规服用性能可满足市场需求,阻燃性能可达到B级阻燃服的要求,能够满足民用、工业用、军警用等阻燃防护和服用性能的要求,可为高档阻燃面料的开发提供参考。

丝毛混纺织物一浴法同色染色工艺

为实现丝毛混纺织物的一浴法同色染色,通过对毛纱和蚕丝的分浴及同浴染色实验,分析了温度对两种纱线染料上染情况的影响,发现在染色温度为85℃时,两种纱线同浴染色的同色性可以达到较好的水平。在此染色温度下,研究了一浴法常规染色工艺中pH值、元明粉质量浓度和保温时间对混纺织物同色性和染料上染率的影响。探索出可进一步提高织物同色性的一浴法低温延长染色工艺,并通过正交试验进行了工艺优化。最佳工艺参数为:染浴pH=5、酸性染料B 4%(o.w.f.)、匀染剂S 0.5 g/L、渗透剂F 0.5 g/L、元明粉50 g/L、40℃保温40 min、85℃保温20 min。

牦牛绒优可丝混纺纱及织物性能研究

探讨牦牛绒与优可丝混纺纱的可纺性及织物性能。基于集聚纺的工艺要求,设计并纺制了牦牛绒/优可丝混纺比为20/80、30/70、40/60、50/50、60/40的30 tex混纺纱。观察了纤维原料的形貌结构,测试了单纤维强伸性能以及不同规格纱线的强力、毛羽、条干。结果表明:与纯牦牛绒纱、纯优可丝纱对比,混纺纱的断裂强度、断裂伸长率、毛羽H值、条干等指标均明显优于纯牦牛绒纱;随着牦牛绒纤维含量的增加,混纺纱的强力、伸长率逐渐降低,毛羽H值呈现先减小后增大的趋势,条干均匀度呈先改善后恶化的趋势。使用模糊综合分析法对各项性能指标进行计算,得出混纺纱的最优混纺比为30/70。最后通过对针织物的基本性能测试分析,验证了混纺纱的织造性能,表明牦牛绒优可丝混纺纱可以生产出性能优异的针织物,具有良好的可加工性。

不同混纺比和纺纱方式对棉/丝光羊毛混纺纱性能影响的分析

为了提高棉/毛混纺纱的可纺性和适用性,设计了3种不同混纺比的22 tex集聚纱和集聚赛络纱,并对纱线强伸性、毛羽、成纱条干和纱线耐磨性、吸湿性等指标进行了测试分析。结果表明:羊毛纤维比棉纤维粗且吸湿性比棉好,随着丝光羊毛含量的增加,不同纱线内纤维根数和纤维间抱合力不一致,棉/丝光羊毛JC/W(80/20)纱线的强伸性和耐磨性没有JC/W(90/10)纱线好,但是JC/W(80/20)纱线的吸湿性优于JC/W(90/10)纱线;JC/W(80/20)集聚赛络纺纱线的芯吸高度达到98 mm,有利于提高织物的吸湿性。可根据产品的需求选择合适的混纺比,从而开发符合后道需求的产品。

混纺比对棉/丝光羊毛针织物性能的影响

为了开发高品质棉毛混纺针织物,探讨羊毛纤维含量变化对棉毛混纺纱及其针织物性能的影响。采用3种混纺比和2种纺纱方式纺制了6种纱线及其针织物,并对6种针织物的耐磨、强力、热湿舒适性以及织物风格等性能进行了测试。结果表明:纤维含量对织物的风格特征影响并不显著,羊毛纤维含量的增加使织物的保暖性和抗折皱性增强,但也会在一定程度上降低织物的强力、耐磨性,使织物的透气透湿性变差,企业在实际应用中可根据织物的服用性能与客户需求选择混纺比,从而获得合适的织物品质和性能,获得良好的经济效益。

精纺长绒棉与羊毛混纺纱生产实践

利用羊毛与长绒棉混纺纱,通过对原材料的选择,设计合理的纺纱工艺以保证产品质量,有效地解决了长绒棉纤维在精纺设备中不易牵伸、混合不均匀、易产生毛粒等问题,确保纱线的品质达到一等品的要求。对生产精纺长绒棉与羊毛混纺纱的纺纱工序,如复精梳、并条、粗纱、细纱、络筒等关键工序中的要点与难点进行分析,以加强纱线品质控制要求。