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Jonzac Thermal Spring Water Reinforces Skin Barrier Function of Human Skin and Presents a Soothing and Regenerating Effect
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作者 Valérie Cauche Coralie Martineau +3 位作者 Giuseppe Percoco Marie Reynier Stéphanie Scalvino Laurent Peno-Mazzarino 《Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications》 2023年第4期247-268,共22页
The skin is a formidable physical and biological barrier which communicates continuously with the outside of the body. And the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of human epidermis, plays a central role in the inter... The skin is a formidable physical and biological barrier which communicates continuously with the outside of the body. And the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of human epidermis, plays a central role in the interaction between the cutaneous tissue and the external environment. The horny layer, and more generally the whole skin layers, avoid the penetration of harmful exogenous agents, produce molecules named anti-microbial peptides which impact the composition of the cutaneous microbiota, regulate the internal corporal temperature, avoid the water loss from the inside of the body and constitute an incredible efficient anti-oxidant network. Nevertheless, nowadays, the skin is more and more solicited by the different elements of the cutaneous exposome, including atmospheric pollution and solar radiations, which can cause a dramatic acceleration of the skin ageing process. As a consequence, due to the multifunctional protective role of the skin, during the recent decade the cosmetic industry invested massively in the development of new raw materials and end-products (dermo-cosmetics) able to preserve an optimal state of the skin regarding the external environment. Based on their physical-chemical properties thermal spring waters, which are extremely rich in inorganics ions, are interesting and powerful candidates to be part, as integral component, of new efficient dermo-cosmetic formulations dedicated to protect the skin from the external stimuli. The aim of the present work was to investigate and characterize the activity of Jonzac thermal spring water on the skin. Using different models, we proved for the first time that Jonzac thermal spring water reinforces the barrier function of the skin by modulating the expression of key markers including filaggrin and human beta defensin 2 on ex vivo human skin. The ex vivo and in vivo hydration activity, by Raman spectroscopy and corneometry respectively, has been also demonstrated. We have also shown that Jonzac thermal spring water ameliorates significantly the cutaneous microrelief in vivo. To conclude, we characterize the soothing effect of Jonzac thermal spring water by the analysis of histamine release in Substance P treated skin explants and by measuring the redness of the skin following UV exposure of the skin in vivo. We observed that both parameters decreased following a preventive treatment of the skin with Jonzac thermal spring water. Taken together our results indicate that Jonzac thermal spring water is a promising and powerful dermo-cosmetic which can be used to preserve an optimal state of the cutaneous tissue. 展开更多
关键词 Jonzac Thermal Spring Water Skin Barrier Function Soothing Effect Regenerating Effect Skin Hydration Isotonicity Dermo-Cosmetics Ex Vivo Explants
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Birch Sap (<i>Betula alba</i>) and Chaga Mushroom (<i>Inonotus obliquus</i>) Extracts Show Anti-Oxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and DNA Protection/Repair Activity <i>In Vitro</i> 被引量:1
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作者 Mohamed Softa Giuseppe Percoco +1 位作者 Elian Lati Pauline Bony 《Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications》 2019年第2期188-205,共18页
OBJECTIVE: The skin interacts strictly with the surrounding environment. Despite an efficient system of protection, its integrity is continuously assaulted by a massive group of external stresses. UV irradiations repr... OBJECTIVE: The skin interacts strictly with the surrounding environment. Despite an efficient system of protection, its integrity is continuously assaulted by a massive group of external stresses. UV irradiations represent one of the most harmful factors for the cutaneous tissue. Both UV-A and UV-B can induce deep modifications of the different layers of the skin, including a weakening of its barrier function properties, DNA damages and degradation of the extracellular matrix. The aim of this project was to assess the UV protection activity of two natural compounds, the birch sap from Betula alba and organic extract from Inonotus obliquus (chaga mushroom) used separately or in a complex. METHODS: The anti-oxidant (ROS and MDA quantification, catalase and SOD activity measurement), anti-inflammatory (IL-1β, IL-6, IL-8, IL-10, TNF-α and INF-γ dosages) and the DNA protection/repair activities (DNA lesion site analysis) of birch sap and chaga mushroom extracts tested separately or in a complex containing organic birch sap 5% and Inonotus obliquus extracts 2% were evaluated in vitro after exposure of cultured keratinocytes and fibroblasts or reconstructed epidermis to UV-A/UV-B irradiations. RESULTS: We observed that birch sap from Betula alba and extracts from Inonotus obliquus prevent the formation of ROS and decrease the oxidative stress induced under UV irradiations, suggesting a strong anti-oxidant activity. In addition, the tested products showed an immunomodulatory effect by reducing the quantity of pro-inflammatory cytokines upon UV irradiations. UV-induced DNA damages of keratinocytes were also reduced by birch sap and chaga mushroom extracts. CONCLUSION: Here, for the first time, we have shown the photo-protection activity of extracts obtained from Betula alba and Inonotus obliquus mushroom on skin cells exposed to UV-A and UV-B irradiations. Due to their anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and DNA protection/repair activities, the tested products represent promising candidates in the development of cosmetic products with anti-photo-aging activity. 展开更多
关键词 Birch Sap Chaga MUSHROOM UV Irradiations Oxidative Stress Photo-Aging Natural Compounds
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Seaberry (<i>Hippophae rhamnoides L.</i>) and Water Lily (<i>Nymphaeaceae</i>) Extracts Protect Human Skin against Blue Light, Environmental Pollutants and UV-A Irradiations in an <i>Ex Vivo</i>Model System
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作者 Softa Mohamed Percoco Giuseppe +3 位作者 Almeida Scalvino Stéphanie Peno-Mazzarino Laurent Pauline Bony Lati Elian 《Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications》 2019年第3期244-262,共19页
Background: The skin is the outer shell of the mammalian body and it is continuously exposed to a large spectrum of external stimuli including sun irradiation and atmospheric pollutants. These factors present deleteri... Background: The skin is the outer shell of the mammalian body and it is continuously exposed to a large spectrum of external stimuli including sun irradiation and atmospheric pollutants. These factors present deleterious effects on the cutaneous compartment by altering the skin barrier functions and accelerating the aging of the skin. Objectives: The goal of this study was to investigate the activity of Seaberry and Water Lily extracts, here called Dermina complex, against different external stresses. Methods: Human skin explants were exposed to different stimuli including delipidation by organic solvents, blue light, atmospheric pollutants and UV-A. The activity of the Seaberry and Water Lily extracts was assessed by immunohistochemistry and by biochemical assays. Results: We showed that Dermina complex prevents the delipidation-induced filaggrin decrease, suggesting that these plant extracts exhibited barrier function protecting properties. Also, we observed that Dermina complex showed an antioxidant and DNA protection activity by decreasing the activated form of Nrf2, the oxidized proteins and the formation of γ-H2AX induced upon stress conditions. The Dermina complex also decreased the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1 alpha released in the culture medium following atmospheric pollutants and UV-A exposure confirming its anti-inflammatory activity. Moreover, Dermina complex reduced the blue light-induced overexpression of opsin 3, indicating that its skin protection activities may be due, in part, to filter property against environmental stresses. Conclusions: Dermina complex shows a protective activity of the skin against different environmental stresses and these extracts may be able to slow down the aging process of the cutaneous compartment. 展开更多
关键词 Exposome Environmental Pollution Blue Light Oxidative Stress Plant EXTRACTS Skin EXPLANTS
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