Shanghai's Fashion During Republic Period

The goal of this research is to describe and analyze Shanghai’s fashion during Republic Period. Shanghai’s fashion during Republic Period plays a special role in fashion history of China and Shanghai history. In the paper, three aspects including the fashion centre of China as well as Far East, men’s fashion and women’s fashion in Shanghai are discussed. The style, textiles, color, decoration and combination of clothing are described. Many costumes from the Clothing Museum at Donghua University and private collections as well as some historical writings, photographs and publications are elucidated and corroborated to give a more detailed description about Shanghai’s fashion during that period.Here are some tentative conclusions. Firstly, Shanghai had always been the fashion center in China even Far East during Republic Period. Modeng was the main reflection of Shanghai fashion. Secondly, the traditional clothing exerted less influence and was less widely used, some kinds and combinations were out of fashion gradually. The fashion was described to be highly stylized, exquisite and concise. Thirdly, the influence of Western Style was further greater. The fashion in Shanghai was almost synchronous with fashion of Paris. Some western clothing was directly used in daily life and the elements of Western Style had an increasingly wide utilization. Fourthly, the New Chinese Style whose representatives were Qipao and Zhongshan Zhuang appeared and popularized in Shanghai. The fashion of Qipao changed frequently. Finally, the fashion in Shanghai called Shanghai Style could be summarized fashionable, exquisite, rapidly changeable, which is harmonious of both ancient and modern, Chinese and foreign.

Research on Development Rule of Retail Store in China's Fashion Market

Retail store is one of key contents of fashion marketing management. From the point of theory of three spaces in store, Shanghai - China's most important fashion retailing market, is taken as a research sample. Store types, transform rule and relative factors of China's fashion retailing market are discussed. Some problems,such as agreement of store quality and brand target, are analyzed. Finally, five basic conclusions are drawn:first, development of store has been simultaneous with the development of fashion retailing market; second,development speed of store is restrained by region economy objectively; third, the effective means of upgrading marketing level of fashion brand presupposes improving the whole quality of store; fourth, the model of store is index reflecting competitive ability of fashion brand; fifth, there is obvious difference between domestic fashion store and that of international important area.

Methodology of Fashion Merchandising by Modularization Operation Management

Based on the requirements of applying information technology to reform the traditional fashion industry,the method of fashion merchandising management in some medium-sized enterprises is discussed. By analyzing the actual domestic fashion industry environment, ideal model that could quickly respond to the market's changes is proposed which includes naming brand, target-market position, circumstances analysis and popularity anticipation, brand concept and style setting, fashion design, fashion category component, and sale strategy.

Study on the Relation between the Air Gap Size under Clothing and the Comfort Sensations

Combining two non-contact testing instruments of a three-dimensional body measure system and an infrared camera, the entrapped air gap under clothing and the clothing surface temperature distribution were measured without interfering the air gap state. It was discussed the effect of different air gap size on subjective clothing sensation. At the same time, taken the subjective sensations of moisture, adhesiveness and mugginess from the lower back as example, the relationship among the subjective evaluation, the air gap size and the clothing surface temperature were analyzed.

Prediction of the Performance of the Fabrics in Garment Manufacturing by Artificial Neural Network

An artificial neural network is used to predict the performance of fabrics in clothing manufacturing. The predictions are based on fabric mechanical properties measured on the FAST system. The influences of the different ANNs construct on the convergence speed and the prediction accuracy are investigated. The result indicates that the BP neural network is an efficiency technique and has a wide prospect in the application to garment processing.

Intelligence in Clothing Pattern CAD System

It analyzes three recognition methods for five elements,i.e.dot,line,loop,clothing pattern as well as characters,and also applies intelligent points and tangential curve in the CAD system to solve the problem complained by CAD users.It indicates that recognition of five elements is a foundational technique of intelligence in clothing pattern CAD system.Common functions in operation state such as move,rotation,flip,measure,should precede ones in element state as dot,line,and pattern.Moreover,it is realized that the less skill the CAD user needs,the more the CAD software is high-tech.

Effects of Dressing Poses on Clothing Thermal Insulation

With a thermal manikin, the effects of dressing poses on clothing thermal insulation are studied. It is found that the thermal insulation of still air layer over human body has not been influenced by the dressing poses, but the dressing poses have effects on the thermal insulation of clothing system.

Development of 3D Female Breast Model Library for Bra Design

As the maturity of female costume concept as well as the social consuming activities, a new and higher requirement is imposed on female underwear design. Human body model is the basic of many applications on 3D garment CAD. This paper delivered a novel approach for modeling a human body which could be driven by related body dimensions to form a female breast model library based on the free form deformatioll technologies. The 3D female breast shape reserve has a strong potential of being used for bra design, bra flttins, virtual try-on and exhibition to meet ＂made-tomeasure＂ demand of the booming bra market in the world.

Comfort of Light-weight Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

The comfort of the light-weight woven fabrics was investigated by conducting the wear trials under the controlled climatic conditions. The wear trial under the neutral environmental conditions showed that the lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the silk fabric, cotton poplin and polyester/cotton poplin fabrics tested in this study. The main shortcoming in terms of comfort for these lightweight wool fabrics is the prickle. Besides, the fabric softness was found to be a very important factor influencing the comfort of the clothing worn next to the skin.

Thermal Protective Performance of Heat and Flame Resistant Fabrics in Different Radiant and Convective Heat Exposures

The thermal protective performance （TPP） is important for heat and flame resistant fabrics. In this study, fabrics which are made of flame resistant cotton, Nomex, polybenzimidazole （PBI）, polysulfonamide （PSA）, kermel, and blend of kermei with rayon fiber are investigated on high intensity of different radiant and convective heat source. The mechanism of heat transfer in different situations is discussed. It is identified that exposed candition has an important effect on thermal protective performance. TPP rating increases with the increasing percentage of convective heat.

Application of Three-dimensional Body Measurement System

The configuration principles and functions of the non-contact three-dimensional （3D） body measurement system （BMS） developed by the Textile/Clothing Technology Corporation （[TC]^2） are described in this paper. The advantages of this new system, compared with traditional contact body measurement instruments （ Martin instruments ） are discussed by selecting 40 female undergraduates of Donghna University as the scan objects. In the experiments both the Martin instruments and [TC]^2 BMS were used respectively. According to the data of different position （Bust Circumference, Full Waist, Full Hips, Bust Height, Front Waist Height and Back Waist Height） obtained from both of the methods we can get the correlation coefficient which is close to 1, indicating that the results of both methods have comparability. Finally some suggestions for the further applications of the non-contact BMS in the apparel development of China are given.

Female's Characteristic Index of Upper Body for Apparel Mass Customization

The measurements of female aged from 18 to 50 in the East China are taken by TC2 3D-body scanner. The first five factors are obtained by factor analysis of SPSS from 25 items of the upper body which influence the body shape, that is, circumference factor, height factor, side shape factor, frontal shape factor, and shoulder slope factor. Then characteristic indices of upper body are chosen by analyzing body scan data. This study will be useful for developing pattern more fitting and faster and helpful for realizing apparel mass customization.

Application of Structural Equation Modeling to Evaluate Service Quality of Sportswear Retailing

Structural Equation Modeling （SEM） used widely in sociology, economics and psychology is adopted. Based on data obtained from marketing research, and using statistical analysis software SPSSll. 0 and LISRELS. 7, Theory of Five Dimensions of service quality is proved to be suitable in sportswear retailing in China. It analyzes the relationship among five dimensions and puts them in order of importance as to service quality in sportswear retailing. Advices are given for sportswear retail companies to improve their .Service quality and enhance customer loyalty.

Measurements and Terminology of Different Measure Methods

Body measuring is very important for garment sizing and pattern making. In this paper, we study the difference of the landmarks between the traditional method and 3D scanner and we also select the 19 circumference measurements,29 height and length measurements, 18 breadth and depth measurements and 3 other measurements, which are quite important in fashion body measuring, to compare the terminology of them in these two measuring method. 3D scanners seem better than the traditional method on these aspects, which are the number of measurements, speed,privacy and data accuracy, but they are limited on measuring posture. And there is no uniform standard for the scanners and the definitions of the measurements in the scanners are diversified.

Development of CAPP System for Small and Medium Size Apparel Enterprises

Existing computer-aided process planning （CAPP） systems for garment manufacturing emphasize all-purpose ones, lack specialism and availability. So, few developed is popular in the garment industries. This study is intended for developing a CAPP system, which aims at the actual condition of process planning in the small and medium size apparel enterprises （SMAs）. It enables the technologists of process planning to be quicker in generating suitable plans that are similar to existing styles or new. It also automatically provides labor cost by considering the shop-ricer caztiticns. Process planning is achieved by adopting the Hybrid Interactive-variant process planning mete. The proposed system has been realized in Borland Delphi 7 and Orade 8. For validation of the system, the software has been implemented successfully in a firm named Jingchen in China.

Effect of Air Gap under Fabric on Thermal Protective Performance Using an Improved Apparatus

The bench top test is one of the most important and effective methods to evaluate the total thermal protective performance(TPP) of firefighters' protective clothing,which is greatly influenced by the air gaps entrapped.In this paper,to investigate the effect of air gap width on TPP,a new improved apparatus with two height changeable buttons to hold the thermal sensor was developed to get a series of air gap sizes from 0 mm to 40 mm.The TPP of two types of flame-resistant outer fabrics was measured with TPP test apparatus respectively.Analysis of temperature rise with each air gap width was made to determine the effects of different air gaps on protective performance.It was indicated that air gap size had great effect on TPP of fabrics in the bench top test.An air gap width above 8 mm was suggested for the thermal protective clothing design.

Effect of Phase Change Materials on the Thermal Protective Performance of the Multi-layered Fabrics Examined by TPP Tester under Flash Fire

Cotton fabrics treated with phase change materials( PCMs)were used in multi-layered fabrics of the fire fighter protective clothing to study its effect on thermal protection. The thermal protective performance( TPP) of the multi-layered fabrics was measured by a TPP tester under flash fire. Results showed that the utilization of the PCM fabrics improved the thermal protective performance of the multi-layered fabrics. The fabric with a PCM add on of 41. 9% increased the thermal protection by 50. 6% and reduced the time to reach a second degree burn by 8. 4 s compared with the reference fabrics( without PCMs). The employment of the PCM fabrics also reduced the blackened areas on the inner layers. The PCM fabrics with higher PCM melting temperature could bring higher thermal protective performance.

E-Commerce Strategies for Chinese Clothing Enterprises

This paper studies the characteristics and consuming behaviors of the Chinese people. The difficulties in developing e-commerce for enterprises in China are discussed and the practical strategies suitable for China’s clothing enterprises are proposed.

Skin Sensitive Difference of Human Body Sections under Clothing - Multiple Analysis of Skin Surface Temperature Changes

A new researching method on clothing comfort perception is developed.By it the skin surface temperature changes and subjective psychological perception of human body sections stimulated by the same cold stimulation are studied.With the multiple comparison analysis method the changing laws of skin temperature of main human body sections is obtained.

Body Classification Based on Adaptive Made-to-Measure( MTM ) Framework

The purpose of this paper was to develop a reliable body shape analysis approach based on cluster analysis, k. nearestneighbor( KNN), and multi-class support vector machine( MSVM). Firstly,a total of 357 Chinese men were selected to make a dataset. Secondly, the experiences of these data were not accumulated to build general models. Five body angles were extracted as independent variables. Four clusters were the most efficient cluster number for our study. Finally,the accuracy of body classifications is compared between KNN and MSVM. In this study,the body classification framework was studied to transfer the body feature data to intuitive types. Moreover,the adaptive made-tomeasure( MTM) framework based on body classification was studied. The case demonstration and analysis show the effectiveness of the study.