A novel theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current. The problem was solved by applying an eigenfunction expansion method and the derived sem...A novel theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current. The problem was solved by applying an eigenfunction expansion method and the derived semi-analytical solution was employed to study the transformation of wave profile and the evolution of wave spectrum arising from the nonlinear interactions of wave components in a wave train which may lead to the formation of very large waves. The results show that the propagation of wave trains is significantly affected by a current. A relatively small current may substantially affect wave train components and the wave train shape. This is observed for both opposing and following current. The results demonstrate that the application of the nonlinear model has a substantial effect on the shape of a wave spectrum. A train of originally linear and very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short distance from an initial position. The discrepancies between the wave trains predicted by applying the linear and nonlinear models increase with the increasing wavelength and become significant in shallow water even for waves with low steepness. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical results. The free-surface elevations recorded by a system of wave gauges are compared with the results provided by the nonlinear model. Additional verification was achieved by applying a Fourier analysis and comparing wave amplitude spectra obtained from theoretical results with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed for both amplitudes and phases. The model predicts fairly well multi-peak spectra, including wave spectra with significant nonlinear wave components.展开更多
A numerical solution was derived to determine wave field in a converging channel bounded by rubble-mound jetties. The solution was achieved by applying boundary element method. The model was applied to analyze the eff...A numerical solution was derived to determine wave field in a converging channel bounded by rubble-mound jetties. The solution was achieved by applying boundary element method. The model was applied to analyze the effect of channel convergence, the cross-section of the jetties and their physical and damping properties on wave field in the channel. The study reveals numerous non-intuitive results specific for jetted and convergent channels. The analysis shows that wave reflection is usually low and is of secondary practical importance. Wave transmission strongly depends on the channel geometry and transmitted waves may be higher than incident waves, despite reflection and damping processes. Moreover, wave transmission depends on physical and damping properties of rubble jetties and the results show that wave transmission may increase with the increasing damping properties of jetties, which is a non-intuitive feature of wave fields in jetted channels. The analysis reveals several novel results of practical importance. It is shown that the rubble-mound jetties should be constructed from the material of high porosity, which ensures low transmission. More attention should be devoted to hydraulic properties of porous materials. It is recommended to use the material of moderate damping properties. The material of high damping properties often increases the wave transmission. It is possible, by a selection of rubble-mound material, to obtain lower transmission level for steep waves than for waves of moderate steepness. A series of laboratory experiments were conducted in the wave flume to verify the theoretical results. The comparisons show that theoretical results are in fairly good agreement with experimental data.展开更多
基金supported partially by the Institute of Hydroengineering of the Polish Academy of Sciences and the state budget for research for the years 2010-2011
文摘A novel theoretical approach is applied to predict the propagation and transformation of transient nonlinear waves on a current. The problem was solved by applying an eigenfunction expansion method and the derived semi-analytical solution was employed to study the transformation of wave profile and the evolution of wave spectrum arising from the nonlinear interactions of wave components in a wave train which may lead to the formation of very large waves. The results show that the propagation of wave trains is significantly affected by a current. A relatively small current may substantially affect wave train components and the wave train shape. This is observed for both opposing and following current. The results demonstrate that the application of the nonlinear model has a substantial effect on the shape of a wave spectrum. A train of originally linear and very narrow-banded waves changes its one-peak spectrum to a multi-peak one in a fairly short distance from an initial position. The discrepancies between the wave trains predicted by applying the linear and nonlinear models increase with the increasing wavelength and become significant in shallow water even for waves with low steepness. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify theoretical results. The free-surface elevations recorded by a system of wave gauges are compared with the results provided by the nonlinear model. Additional verification was achieved by applying a Fourier analysis and comparing wave amplitude spectra obtained from theoretical results with experimental data. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed for both amplitudes and phases. The model predicts fairly well multi-peak spectra, including wave spectra with significant nonlinear wave components.
文摘A numerical solution was derived to determine wave field in a converging channel bounded by rubble-mound jetties. The solution was achieved by applying boundary element method. The model was applied to analyze the effect of channel convergence, the cross-section of the jetties and their physical and damping properties on wave field in the channel. The study reveals numerous non-intuitive results specific for jetted and convergent channels. The analysis shows that wave reflection is usually low and is of secondary practical importance. Wave transmission strongly depends on the channel geometry and transmitted waves may be higher than incident waves, despite reflection and damping processes. Moreover, wave transmission depends on physical and damping properties of rubble jetties and the results show that wave transmission may increase with the increasing damping properties of jetties, which is a non-intuitive feature of wave fields in jetted channels. The analysis reveals several novel results of practical importance. It is shown that the rubble-mound jetties should be constructed from the material of high porosity, which ensures low transmission. More attention should be devoted to hydraulic properties of porous materials. It is recommended to use the material of moderate damping properties. The material of high damping properties often increases the wave transmission. It is possible, by a selection of rubble-mound material, to obtain lower transmission level for steep waves than for waves of moderate steepness. A series of laboratory experiments were conducted in the wave flume to verify the theoretical results. The comparisons show that theoretical results are in fairly good agreement with experimental data.
